My Ravelry Designer Store

My ravelry Designer Store is now visible to non-ravelry public too. You can check out all my patterns, including the favorites and project stats for each pattern as well as make purchases directly at the store.

Cable Top- Free Pattern

I did manage to write a pattern for this cable top I knit last month for my daughter. And after some wonderful help from two awesome testers, the pattern is available now as a free download at my ravelry store. Click on the link below to download the file.

download now

Potohar Felted Bag

Thus is named the bag I made last week. I have written the pattern and madeit available for free through my ravelry store. You can click on this link to download the file.

As, for the name, Potohar is the region of Pakistan, I belong to. Colors in the bag somewhat remind me of the local scenery.

Diagonal Garter Vest

I got 4 balls of Boku (Plymouth Yarn) a few months back as part of an RAK. I really wanted to make a wearable out of them. I thought I could successfully stretch the 396 yards into a vest. I had knit a vest during my teens and quite liked its shape etc. So, I decided to base this new vest on that shape but to knit diagonally, this time. It has taken me about a week from start to finish and that's partly because of the occassional frogging. I wrote the pattern side-by-side and so it is ready. Did not add sizes other than the one I knit, because I was not confident about their accuracy without being test knitted, as this is a diagonal knit. I used up all the 4 balls in knitting. For the crochet edging, I used another yarn in solid brown.

DIAGONAL GARTER VEST

MATERIALS:
· Boku 4balls
· Solid color yarn for crochet edging small amount.
· Straight knitting needles 4.50 mm
· Crochet hook 4.00 mm
· Buttons…7
Note: The pattern uses up all but a couple of yards of the 4 balls. To be on the safe side, have an extra ball handy.

SIZE: 38 -40

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
Chest 38 inches (negative ease of about 2 inches),
Length 18.50 inches (back) and 20.50 inches (front at longest point)
Armhole length 9 inches

GAUGE:
8 sts X 16 rows = 2 inches in garter st.

METHOD

LEFT BACK:
Cast on 2 sts.
Foundation row (WS): Knit.
Row 1(RS): Inc 1 in 1st st, inc 1 ind 2nd st.(4 sts)
Row 2 (WS): K.
Row 3: Inc 1 in 1st st, k to the last st, inc 1 in the last st.
Row 4: K.
Repeat rows 3 and 4, until there are 60 sts.
Next Row: ssk, k to last st, inc in last st.
Next Row: k.
Repeat the last 2 rows, three more times

Armhole Shaping:
Row 1: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 2: BO 2 sts, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rows, once more.
Next Row: ssk, k to end.
Next Row: K
Repeat the last 2 rows, 11 more times. (40 sts)
Next Row: Ssk, k to last st, inc 1 in the last st.
Next Row: K
Repeat these last 2 rows, another 23 times.
Next Row: ssk, k to end.
Next Row: ssk, k to end. (38 sts)

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: BO 8 sts, k to end.
Next Row (WS): Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (28 sts)
Repeat these last 2 rows, once more. (18 sts)
Next Row: BO 2 sts, k to end.
Next Row: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (14 sts)
Repeat these last 2 rows, 3 more times, BO all.

RIGHT BACK:
Cast on 2 sts.
Foundation row (WS): Knit.
Row 1(RS): Inc 1 in 1st st, inc 1 ind 2nd st.(4 sts)
Row 2 (WS): K.
Row 3: Inc 1 in 1st st, k to the last st, inc 1 in the last st.
Row 4: K.
Repeat rows 3 and 4, until there are 60 sts.
Next Row: Inc in 1st st, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: k.
Repeat the last 2 rows, three more times.

Armhole Shaping:
Row 1: BO 2 sts, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 2: k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat these 2 rows, once more.
Next Row: k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: K
Repeat the last 2 rows, 11 more times. (40 sts)
Next Row: Inc in 1st st, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: K
Repeat these last 2 rows, another 23 times.
Next Row: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: K. (38 sts)

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row (WS): BO 8, k to end. (28 sts)
Repeat these last 2 rows, once more. (18 sts)
Next Row: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: BO 2 sts, k to end. (14 sts)
Repeat these last 2 rows, 3 more times, BO all.

RIGHT FRONT:
Cast on 20 sts,
Foundation Row (WS): K.
Row !: K to last st, inc 1 st in last st.
Row 2: K.
Row 3: Inc in 1st st, k to last st, inc in last st.
Row 4: K.
Repeat these 4 rows, 12 more times, (59 sts)
Next row: K to last st, inc ` in last st.
Next row: K.
Next Row (1st Buttonhole Row): Inc 1 in 1st st, k2, yo, k2tog, k to last st, inc 1 in last st.
Next Row: K.
Next row: Ssk, k to last st, inc 1 in last st.
Next row: K.
Repeat last 2 row, 3 more times.

Armhole Shaping:
Row 1: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 2: BO 2 sts, k to end.
Row 3 (2nd Buttonhole): Ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, k to last st, k2tog.
Row 4: BO 2 sts, k to end.
Row 5: Ssk, k to end.
Row 6: K.
Repeat the last 2 rows, 4 more times.
Next Row (3rd Buttonhole): Ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, k to end.
Next row: K.
Next row: Ssk, k to end.
Next Row: K.
Repeat the last 2 rows, 4 more times.
Next Row (4th Buttonhole): Ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, k to end.
Next row: K.
Next Row: Ssk, k to the last st, inc 1 in last st. (42 sts)
Next Row: K.
Repeat the last 2 rows, 4 more times.
●Next Row (5th Buttonhole): Ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, k to the last st, inc 1 st in last.
Next row: K.
Next Row: Ssk, k to the last st, inc 1 in last st.
Next Row: K.*
Repeat the last 2 rows, 4 more times.●●
Repeat from ● to ●● once, and then once from ● to *.

Neck Shaping:
Row 1(RS): BO 2, k to last st, inc 1.
Row 2: K to last 2, k2tog.
Repeat these 2 rows, 4 more times. (32 sts)
Next Row (RS): BO 2 st, k to end.
Next Row (WS): Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k 2 tog. (28 sts).
Repeat these last 2 rows, 6 more times, 4 sts remain, BO all sts.

LEFT FRONT:
Cast on 20 sts,
Foundation Row (WS): K.
Row !: Inc in the 1st st, k to end.
Row 2: K.
Row 3: Inc in 1st st, k to last st, inc in last st.
Row 4: K.
Repeat these 4 rows, 13 more times, (62 sts)
Next row: Inc in 1st st, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next row: K.
Repeat last 2 row, 3 more times.

Armhole Shaping:
Row 1: BO 2 sts, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 2: K to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat the last 2 rows, once more. (54 sts)
Next row: K to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: K.
Repeat the last 2 rows, 11 more times.(42 sts)
Next Row: Inc in 1st st, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: K.
Repeat the last 2 rows, 18 more times.

Neck Shaping:
Row 1(RS): Inc 1, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 2: BO 2 sts, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rows, 4 more times. (32 sts)
Next Row (RS): Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row (WS): BO 2 sts, k to the end. (28 sts).
Repeat these last 2 rows, 6 more times, 4 sts remain, BO all sts.

FINISHING:
Stitch together the two back pieces. Then sew the shoulder and side seams. With 4 mm crochet hook and contrasting yarn, crochet a row of sc all across the lower edge, front edge and the neckline. Also crochet a row of sc across the armholes. Sew on the buttons.

February Girlie Top

I wanted to do a quick project and I had this one ball of Sirdar Spree, so the idea of a top for my daughter was born. For the lace part, I finally decided on the gull lace pattern (originally used in February baby sweater, I believe and more recently in Feb lady's sweater, which I also knitted a few months back). Hence, I nmaed the top February Girlie top. Although, it is winter right now, weather can turn quite warm here in Pakistan and quite soon too. So, DD should be wearing this in two to three months, inshaAllah.

FEBRUARY GIRLIE TOP

Materials:
· Sirdar Spree Cotton Rich Chunky 100gm ball(149 yards/136 m) 1, 2, 2 balls
· 2 stitch markers.
· Knitting needles 6.50 mm.
· A crochet hook for the cast on.
· Buttons…4 larger (2 cm diameter approx) for the strap and 4-5 small ones (1.25 cm diameter approx) for the back band.

Gauge:
12 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches in garter st.
Sizes:
To fit chest sizes 18, (20, 22) inches.

Abbreviations and Pattern:
Yo: yarn over
K2tog: knit 2 together
Ssk: sl 1 st knitwise, k the next st, pass the slipped st over.
Gull Lace Pattern: worked over 7 sts and 4 rows:
Row1: k1, k2tog, yo, k1,yo, ssk,k1, repeat across.
Row 2and 4: purl.
Row 3: k2tog, yo, k3,yo,ssk, repeat across.

Knitting:
With crochet cast-on, CO 56 (62,68) sts. Work 4 (4,6) rows in garter st,
Next row (RS): Cast off first 14 (15,17) sts, k to end.
Next row (WS): Cast off first 14 (15,17) sts, k to end. [28 (32, 34) sts]
Next row (RS): K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k the last st.
Next row (WS): k all.
Repeat the last 2 rows another 5 (6,6) more times. [16(18,20) sts remain]
Next row (RS): K1 (yo, k2tog) rep till 1 st remains, k1.
Next row (WS): K.
Cast off all sts.
Lace Portion:
RS facing, carefully unravel the crochet cast-on and get live sts on the needle, starting from right end to the left.
Next row (WS): k all, increasing 1 (2,3) sts evenly spaced across the row. [57 (64, 71)sts]
Next row (RS): K 5, (yo, k2tog) rep till the last 4 sts, k4.
Next row (WS): K 4, PM, K 49 (56,63), PM, k4.
Start working the gull lace pattern, working the first and last 4 sts on each row in garter st.
Work 10 (11,12) repeats of the lace pattern or until the top measures the desired lenth (I made in on the longer side).
Next, work 8 rows in garter st, cast off.

Straps:
With the RS facing, and the piece held upright, join yarn along the upper edge, 7 sts in from the right centre back, pick up and knit 5 sts. Work in garter st till the strap measures 7 (7.5, 8 ) inches. (The strap will stretch quite a bit).
Repeat on the other side for the second strap.

Finishing:
Weave in ends. Sew the buttons along the right back band and two larger buttons each on each strap –for 2 adjustable strap positions. (No buttonholes were made because with the thick yarn and large needles, it is east to create a buttonhole between yarn loop as such, standard buttonhole would be too large anyway.) Block.

Tic Tac Toes

I had been wanting to knit a pair of ankle socks for myself for quite some while and December Sockdown at Socks Knitters Anonynmous group at ravelry gave me a perfect opportunity. Now the yarn I was planning to use was variegated (self-striping) (Schoeller + Stahl Fortissima Colori Socka Color) and I could not find a suitable pattern that I liked. So I decided to come up with a pattern of my own.

So my three days' labor_ not really hard work because I enjoyed every minute of knitting these socks_ came to this FO:

I also wrote the pattern along the way. It was much harder to think of a suitable name. So after a lot of useless pondering, I could come up with nothing better than Tic Tac Toes. I know it is a bit cutesy but the pattern and the bobbles on the socks remind me of this game.

TIC TAC TOES

Materials:

· Variegated sock yarn as main color (MC) 230 -250 yards ( I used Schoeller + Stahl Fortissima Colori and used up every inch of the single ball. It will be better to have that second ball just in case)

· Solid color sock yarn as contrasting color (CC) small amount

· 2 stitch markers.

· Knitting needles 3.00mm dpns or circular. (St markers are used to mark positions in pattern and so the pattern can be worked both in dpns and circulars. I used dpns.)

· A crochet hook for the cast on.

Gauge:

6.5 sts to an inch in st st.

7.25 sts to an inch in pattern.

Size:

To fit 8.5 to 9 inch foot circumference.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: bring yarn forward between tips of needles from back to front of work.

ybk: bring yarn back between tips of needles from front to back of work.

S3p: slip 3 sts purlwise.

S5p: slip 5 sts purlwise.

MB (make bobble): (k1,p1,k1,p1) all in 1 st, turn, p all 4, turn, k all 4 and pass the right 3 sts over the 4^th st.

W and T: wrap and turn.

PM: place marker

M: marker

METHOD:

TOES:

Using CC and crochet cast on method, cast on 29 sts.

Row 1: P.

Row 2: K to last st, W and T.

●Row 3: P to the last st, W and T.

Row 4: K to st before the last wrapped st, W and T.

Row 5: P to st before the last wrapped st, W and T.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until 11 sts remain between the wrapped sts on both side, ending with a purl row.

Next row: K to the first wrapped st, k wrapped st together with its wrapped loop, W and T.

Next row: P to the first wrapped st, p wrapped st together with its wrapped loop, W and T.

Next row (RS): Sl 1, K to first wrapped st, k the wrapped st together with the 2 loops around it, W and T.

Next row (WS): Sl 1, p to first wrapped st, p the wrapped st together with the 2 loops around it, W and T.

Repeat the last two rows until 1 wrapped st remains at both ends, ending with a P (WS)row.

Next Round (RS): Sl 1, k to the last wrapped st, k the wrapped st together with its 2 loops, DO NOT TURN, carefully remove the crochet ch from the cast on and pick up 29 live sts on a needle. K1, PM, k 27, PM, K1.

Break and secure CC and join MC. If using dpns, divide the sts evenly across the needles.

Next round: Unravel the last st of the last round and pass it onto the left hand needle. Now start the round as follows:

K1, k the last wrapped st together with its 2 loops, k to the end.

The first 31 sts (between the 2 markers) form the top of the foot and will be worked in pattern while the last 27 sts between the markers will form the sole and will be worked in st st.

Begin the pattern from the next round:

Rnd 1: K 1,* yfwd, s5p, ybk, k1, rep from * until the marker, M, k 27, M.

Rnd 2: K all.

Rnd 3: K 3, * knit under the loop,, k5, rep from until 4 sts before the marker, knit under the loop, k3, M, k 27, M.

Rnd 4: K all.

Rnd 5: K1, yfwd, s2p, ybk, k1,* yfwd, s5p, ybk, k1, rep from until 3 sts before the M, yfwd, s2p, ybk, k1, M, k27, M.

Rnd 6: K all.

Rnd 7: Knit under the loop, *k 5, k under the loop, rep from * to the marker, M, k 27, M.

Rnd 8: K all.

Rep these 8 rounds until the sock measures 8 inches from the beginning / or 1.5 inches less than the desired foot length.

HEEL:

Work first 30 sts in patt, jn CC, k1, remove marker, k27, remove marker, W and T. Heel is worked on these last 29 sts.

Continue heel as the toe, starting from ● (row 3 of the toe) to ●●. Break and secure CC.

Next row: Continuing with MC, k the wrapped st together with its loops, k 27 heel sts, k the wrapped st at the end.

Work 6 or 8 more rounds in pattern, extending the pattern across the back of the leg (heel sts) as well.

Next work 2 rnds in st st.

Bobbles rnd: Join CC, * MB with CC, k2 with MC, rep from* across till 1 st remains, MB in cc. Break and secure CC.

Continuing in MC, knit 6 rnds in st st. BO knitwise.

FINISHING:

Weave in ends and block.

Lilac Lace Cardigan

I started this cardigan last year in october. After knitting a few inches of the back, i got distracted with other projects and this went it into hibernation. I got it out this summer planning to finish it before fall. I entered the WIP wrestling event at ravelympics 2008 with the object of finishing it but ... Finally, I did finish it today, pattern and all!
The project details can be found in the pattern. The yarn I used was a local Pakistan brand. This being Ramadan, with me fasting and all, I did not feel upto doing much math. So the pattern below is for one size only. Maybe some day, I can add some othe sizes...maybe.

Lilac Lace Cardigan

Edited Sept 17,2008: To correct a few mistakes in the earlier version.

Materials:
· Bambino DK 100gm/ 300 m 4 balls lilac color OR any other yarn that gets the right gauge.
· Straight needles sizes 3.50 mm, 3.75mm, 4.00mm.
· Circular needles 3.75 mm
· Buttons
· Tapestry needle.

Size: 38-40 inch bust

Finished Measurements:
Sweater length: 24 inches
Chest circumference: 42 inches
Sleeve length: 23 inches

Gauge:
11 sts x 14 rows = 2 inches in textured lace with 3.75 mm needles
10 sts x 14 rows = 2 inches in horseshoe lace with 4.00 mm needles

Patterns:
Lace Pattern #1 (Textured Lace):
Row 1: k3,* yo, k1, k3tog, k1, yo, k3; rep from * across.
Row 2: P3,* k5, p3, rep from* across.
Repeat these two rows for the textured lace pattern.

Lace Pattern #2 (Horseshoe on Parade): 10 +1 sts
Row 1: k1,*yo, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1, rep from *to .
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k2,* yo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, k3*, rep from * to *, ending last repeat with k2.
Row 4: P
Row 5: k3,*yo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k5, rep from * to *, ending last repeat with k3.
Row 6: P.
Row 7: K4,* yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k7, rep from * to *, ending last repeat with k4.
Row 8: P.

Abbreviations:
psso: pass slip st over
yo: yarn over
RS: right side
WS: wrong side

Method:
NOTE:
· Please read through the entire set of instructions before knitting.
· While doing the armhole, neck and sleeve shapings, please make sure the double decreases (sl1, k2tog, psso) match their corresponding yo’s in each row, otherwise you will mess up the number of sts on your needles.

BACK:
With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 120 sts and work in 1x1 twisted rib for 6 rows, increasing 3 sts evenly spaced across the last row (123 sts).
Change to 4.00mm needles and work in pattern #1 starting with row 1 of the pattern. Work until the piece measures 7.5 inches from the beginning.
Then change to 3.75mm needles and continue in pattern until 10.25 inches from the beginning. Change to 3.50mm needles and work 10 rows in 1x1 twisted rib, decreasing 20 sts evenly distributed across the last row.(103 sts)
Change to 4.00mm needles and work in horseshoe lace pattern over the central 101 sts, starting with row 1 of the pattern, working 1 st at each edge in st st.Knit until the horseshoe lace part measures 4.25 inches.
Armhole Shaping:
Working in horseshoe lace, decrease 5 sts at the beginning of next 2 row, 4 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, then 3 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.. Then dec 1 st at the beginning of the next 6 rows.(73 sts)
Continue in pattern till the horseshoe lace part measures 11 inches (22.5 inches from the beginning).
Neck Shaping:
Knit 30 sts in pattern, join another ball, cast off the next 13 sts, work in pattern to the end.(30 sts on both sides)
Working both sides at the same time, decrease 6 sts once, then 2 sts twice on every alternate row, at the neck edge. (20 sts on each side).
Work 2 more rows, ending with a WS row. Cast off 10 sts on the armhole edge on both sides. Work one more row.Cast off the remaining 10 sts on both sides.

RIGHT FRONT:
With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 58 sts and work in 1x1 twisted rib for 6 rows, increasing 1 sts evenly spaced across the last row (59sts).
Change to 4.00mm needles and work in pattern #1 starting with row 1 of the pattern. Work until the piece measures 7.5 inches from the beginning.
Then change to 3.75mm needles and continue in pattern until 10.25 inches from the beginning. Change to 3.50mm needles and work 10 rows in 1x1 twisted rib, decreasing 8 sts evenly distributed across the last row.(51 sts)
Change to 4.00mm needles and work in horseshoe lace pattern. Knit until the horseshoe lace part measures 4.25 inches, ending with a RS row.
Armhole Shaping:
Working in horseshoe lace, decrease 5 sts at the beginning of next row, 4 sts at the beginning of next alternate row, then 3 sts at the beginning of next alternate row. Then dec 1 st at the beginning of the next alternate row, 3 times.(36 sts)
AT THE SAME TIME, DECREASE AT NECK EDGE AS FOLLOWS:
Neck Shaping:
When the horseshoe lace portion measures 6 inches in length, start decreasing 1 st at the neck edge, every other row, a total of sixteen times. (20 sts)
Continue in pattern till the piece equals the back length before the shoulder decreases. Cast off 10 sts at the armhole edge. Work 1 more row, cast off remaining 10 sts.

LEFT FRONT:
Work at right front with the shapings reversed.

SLEEVES (make 2):
With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 46 sts and work 6 rows in 1x1 twisted rib. Change to 4.00mm needles and work in horseshoe lace pattern, increasing I st at both ends of the first row and then every 6th row, a total of 17 times.(80 sts) Continue in patt until sleeve measures 18 inches from the beginning.
Cast off 4 sts at the beg of next 2 rows (72 sts). Then cast off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows (64 sts).
Then cast off 1 st at the beg of next 18 rows (46 sts).
Then cast off 2 sts at the beginning of next 4 rows (38 sts).
Cast off 3 sts at the beg of next 6 rows (20 sts), the cast off 5 sts at the beg of next 2 rows (10 sts). Cast off the remaining 10 sts.

Finishing:
Block the pieces. Join the shoulder seams.
Front Band:
With a long 3.75mm circular needle, the RS facing and beginning at the bottom of right front, pick up and knit 88 sts across the right front, then pick up and knit 40 sts across the right front neck , 36 sts across the back, 40 sts across the left front neck, and 88 sts across the right front. Work in 1x1 twisted rib, starting with the WS row,. On the third row, make four buttonholes( yo, k2tog), evenly spaced across the right front, between the upper neck edge and the lower edge of the waist ribbing. Work 2 more row in rib. Cast off in rib.

Sew in the sleeves and stitch the side and sleeve seams. Sew on buttons and weave in ends.

© copyright ummeyusuf , 2008 http://ummeyusuf.blogspot.com/This pattern is for personal, non-profit use only.

Joined Cables Boy's Cardigan

I finished this cardigan for my son today. It was a simply straightforward knit and turned out quite well. Plus my son seems to like it. The yarn I used is Bally DK, a local Pakistani acrylic brand. Needle sizes were 5 mm and 4.5 mm. The joined cable pattern is from a stitch dictionary. I have made it for size 5-6 years as my son will turn 5 this winter.
I spent the afternoon writing out the pattern. Although there is not much to it, but there seems to be a scarcity of sweater patterns for little guys and I also needed to practise my pattern writing skills. So here is the pattern. I have not mastered excel yet so there is no cable chart.
I could not think of a clever name for this one so it has to be joind cables boy's cardigan after the st pattern.

JOINED CABLES BOY’S CARDIGAN

Material:
- Bally DK (acrylic) grey 80 gm/ball (or any other that gets the correct gauge) ----- 4 balls.
- One pair each of straight needles size 5.00 mm and 4.50 mm and circular needles size 4.50 mm.
- Tapestry needle

Size:
3 years, 4-5 years, 5-6 years

Finished measurements:

3 years 4 years 5-6 years
Chest 13 inches 14 inches 15 inches
Length 16 inches 17.5 inches 19 inches
Sleeve length 11 inches 11.5 inches 12.5 inches

Tension: 8 sts x 12 rows = 2 inches in st st with larger needles.

Abbreviations:
C1(4- st right crossover): slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k 2, k2 from the cable needle.
C2 (4-st left crossover): slip 2 sts on cable needle and hold in front, k 2, k2 from the cable needle.
C3 (4-st right cross): slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k 2, p2 from the cable needle.
C4 (4-st right cross): slip 2 sts on cable needle and hold in front, p2, k2 from the cable needle.

Pattern st (Joined Cables):
Worked on 14 sts.
Row 1: K3, p2, k4, p2, k3.
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: Work each st as it appears on the needle.
Row 3: K3, p2, C2, p2, k3.
Row 5: Repeat row 1.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 9: K3, C3, C4, k3.
Row 11: K1, C3, p4, C4, k1.
Row 13: K1, C1, p4, C2, K1.
Row 15: k3,C4,C3,k3.
Row 16: work as set.
These 16 rows form the pattern.


BACK:
With 4.50 mm straight needles cast on 58 ,(62 , 66) sts. Work in k 2, p 2 rib for 10 rows.
Change to 5.00 mm needles and work in st st until the piece measures 15 (16.5, 18) inches from the beg.
Next row: K 27 sts, join another ball of yarn cast off the next 12 sts and knit to the end of the row.
Working both sides simultaneously with separate balls, work as follows:
Decrease 2,(2,3) sts at the neck edge over the next two rows, then dec 1(2, 2) sts at the next edge over the next 2 rows.[21(21,22) sts on each side}
Work 2 more rows in st st, cast off.


POCKETS (make 2):
With 5.00 mm needles, cast on 16 sts. Work in st st for 20 rows, leave sts on a spare needle.

RIGHT FRONT:
With 4.50mm straight needles, cast on 26,(28,30) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib for 10 rows, INCREASING 2 sts evenly distributed, in the last row.[28( 30, 32) sts]
Change to 5.00 mm needles,
Next row: Knit 6(8,8) sts, row 1 of the pattern over the next 14 sts, knit last 8(8,10) sts.
Next row (WS) : work as the sts appear on the needle.
Continue in this manner, working the 14 sts in cable pattern (6(8,8) sts in from the front edge) and the rest in st st., until the piece measures 5.5 inches from the beginning, ending with a WS row.
Pocket opening:
Next row (RS): knit the first 5(7,7) sts, place the next 16 sts on the needle holder, knit the 16 sts of one of the pockets which were being held on the spare needle, knit the remaining 7(7,9) sts. [28 (30,32) sts]
Continue in pattern as established, resuming the cable pattern from where it was left, until the piece measures 10 (11.5,13) inches from the beg, ending with a WS row.
Neck Shaping:
Dec 1 st at the neck margin in the next row and then in every 3rd row, a total of 9 (10, 10) times. [19(20,22) sts remain]
Continue in pattern until the front matches back in length, bind off.

LEFT FRONT:
Work as for right front, reversing the shaping. The cable pattern is worked on 14 sts, 8 sts in from the centre edge, similar to the right front.

SLEEVES (make 2):
Join the shoulder seams. Place Markers 6.5(7,7) inches down from the shoulder seam on the side edge both at front and back. Join yarn and with 5.oomm needle pick up and knit 52,(54,56) sts across the side edge between these markers. Work in st st decreasing 1 st at both ends of every 6th row, a total of 9(9,10) times [ 34(36,36)sts]
Change to 4.50 mm needles when the sleeves measure 9.5 (10,11) inches. Work in k2, p2 rib for 8 rows. Cast off loosely in rib.

FINISHING:
Pocket bands: Transfer the 16 sts at the pocket opening from the holding needle onto 4.50 mm needle and work in k2, p2 rib for 4 rows. Cast off loosely in rib.
Front band: Starting at the bottom of right front opening, join yarn and pick up and knit 42(48,54) sts cross the right front, 20(22,22) st along the right slope of the neck shaping, 20 sts across the back,20(22,22) sts along the left front slope of the neck and 42(48,54) sts across the left front. Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 rows.
Next row(WS) (Buttonholes): work 4 sts in rib, cast off next 2 sts, (work 8 sts in rib, cast off next 2 sts) 3(4,4) times, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Next row: Work in rib patt as established, on reaching the first buttonhole, cast on 2 sts, (work next 8 sts in rib, cast on 2 sts) 3(4,4) times, work last 4 sts in rib.
Work 2 more rows in rib, cast off (not loosely but rather firmly) in rib.
Sew together the sleeves and side seams. Weave in the loose ends.

[1]
© copyright ummeyusuf , 2008 http://ummeyusuf.blogspot.com
This pattern is for personal, non-profit use only.

Anniversary Bag

This is the bag I completed last week. I wrote the pattern but it had a few charts and I do not know the anyother way to put them on my blog, so I did them by hand and took photos in good sunlight. I think these are fairly legible.

I named this bag thus because I started it in March on the day of our wedding anniversary. It took almost two months to finish, mostly because I did not have time to knit for a month or so. It has quite a variety of cable patterns and is suitable for knitters who have some experience of cable and working from a chart.

ANNIVERSARY BAG

Material:
• Acrylic yarn, off-white, Sports weight
· Knitting needles 4 mm.
· Fabric and canvas for lining
· Zippers

Gauge: 10 sts x 10 rows = 2 inches in Furrows st

Size: 8(height) x 13.5(width) x 2.75(depth) inches

Pattern stitches and abbreviations:
C2b: Put next st on cable needle at back of the knitting, k next st, k st from the cable needle.

Furrows st pattern: ( Taken from Big Book of Knitting Stitch Patterns
by Inc. Sterling Publishing Co.)
Work with a multiple of 6 sts plus 3:
Row 1: P3, *k1, slip 1, k1, p3* : rep from *to* .
Row 2: Work as set.
Row 3: as row 1.
Row 4: as set.
Row 5: K4, *slip 1, k 5* ; repeat from * to*, ending last repeat with k4.
Row 6: as set.
Row 7: rep row 5.
Row 8: as set.
Repeat rows 1 through 8 for pattern.

Method:
Body (make 2):
Cast on 74 sts. One st on each end is an edge st, worked in garter st (i.e. knit in every row). Rest of the sts are worked following the three charts:
Row 1: K1, work 1st row of chart #1, then chart # 2, chart # 1, then Chart #3, Chart#1, chart # 2 and chart #1, k1.
Row 2: K1, work as set to the last st, k1.
Continue in pattern, following the three charts, until it measures inches from the start, ending with row 12 or 14 of chart #3.
Ribbing at the top:
Row 1: (K2, p2) rep to the end.
Row 2: Work as set.
Row 3: (C2b, p2), repeat to the end.
Row 4: Rep row 2.
Row 5: Rep row 1. Bind off in rib.

Sides and Bottom gussets:
Cast on 15 sts. Work in Furrows st until the piece is long enough to go around both sides and bottom, cast off.

Finishing:
Stitch together the three pieces and line as appropriate. I used double layer of fabric with canvas in between for a nice firm shape. Stitch a zipper along the top opening, pinching top ends of the gussets into a double fold and stitching it in place. (See pic)
Handles can be of your own choice. For handles, I used ww yarn in charcoal and made two I-cords ( 8 sts). Then, I passed a electrical cord (the kind used in electrical appliances) to make it sturdier and sewed them into place. Also, stitched a bead onto each end.

© copyright ummeyusuf , 2008 http://ummeyusuf.blogspot.com/This pattern is for personal, non-profit use only.

Cricket Pullover

I finished this pullover for my son in February, but was a bit slow in writing out the pattern. Here it is now, done and complete. I wanted something a little more grown up for my son, something more on the boyish side rather than the usual baby styles.It looks a lot like the kind of pullovers cricketers wear. Being in a cricket-crazy part of the world with my husband being a huge fan of the game, the most likely name to come to my mind was Cricket pullover.

Last Edit: November 13, 2012

CRICKET PULLOVER

Material:- Any Dk weight yarn or yarn that gets the right gauge (100%) dark green (MC)... approx 250gm, and 50gms each of pistachio green (CC2) and off-white (CC1).
- One pair each of straight needles size 3.50 mm and 4.00 mm and circular needles size 3.50 mm.
- Tapestry needle

Size:3 (4-5, 6-7) years

Finished measurements:

Chest: 26 (28, 30) inches
Length: 16 (18, 20) inches
Sleeve length: 11.25 (12.5, 14) inches

Tension:11 sts x 15 rows = 2 inches in st st with larger needles.

Abbreviations:CC: contrasting color.
ccb2: pass the next two sts onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, K the next 2 sts, k2 from the cable needle. (with practice, this cable can be done without a cable needle.
ssp: sl st purlwise.
PM: place marker.
M: marker.
MC: main color

Cable Pattern : (multiple of 12 sts)
Row 1 (RS): (K4, p2) repeat to the end.
Row 2 and all even no. rows (WS): work as set.
Row 3: (K4, p2, ccb2, p2), repeat to the end.
Row 4: as row 2.
Row 5: repeat row 1.
Row 6: as row 2.
These 6 rows make up the pattern.

BACK:
With 3.5 mm straight needles and Dark green (MC), cast on 72,(78, 84) sts. Work in k 2, p 2 rib for 16 rows.
Change to 4.00mm needles and off-white (CC1), work 4 rows in st st (starting with a k row) then join Pistachio green (CC2) and work 4 rows of st st in this color. Fasten off this yarn. Then with CC1, work another 4 rows in st st, increasing 6 (6, 8) sts evenly distributed across in the last row. [78 (84, 92) sts] Fasten off CC1 and continue in main color as follows:
Row 1: K.
Row 2: P
Row 3: K 1 (0, 2), work row 1 of the cable pattern 6 (7, 7) times, k 5 (0, 6).
Row 4: P 5 (0, 6), work row 2 of the cable pattern 6 (7, 7) times, p 1 (0, 2).
Continue in pattern as set until the piece measures 15.5 (17.5, 19.5) inches from the start, ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): Work 35 (37, 41) sts in etablished pattern, cast off the next 8 (10, 10) sts, continue in pattern till the end of the row. Joining yarn to the right half, work both halves simultaneously as follows:
Next row (WS): Work as set. Next 2 rows: Cast off 5 (6, 7) sts at the neck margin on both sides.[ 30( 31, 34)] sts on both sides. Next 2 rows: Cast off 5 (5, 6) sts over the next two rows.[25 (26, 28)] sts on both halves). Work 2 more rows. Bind off.

FRONT:Work as for back until the piece measures 9.5 (11, 12.5) inches, ending with a WS row.
Neck Shaping:Next row (RS): Continuing in pattern, work till the 2 centre sts, cast these off, work to the end.
Join another ball of yarn and work both sides simultaneously.
Next row (WS): Work as set.
Dec 1 st at the neck margin on both sides in the next row and then in every alternate row, a total of 13 (15, 17) times. [52 (26, 28) sts remain]
Continue in pattern until the front matches back in length, bind off.

SLEEVES (make 2):
With 3.5 mm straight needles and Dark green (MC), cast on 38 (42, 46) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib for 16 rows.
Change to 4.00mm needles and off-white (CC1), work 4 rows in st st (starting with a k row) then join Pistachio green (CC2) and work 4 rows of st st in this color. Fasten off this yarn. Then with CC1, work another 4 rows in st st, increasing 4 sts evenly distributed across in the last row.[42 (46, 50 sts)]. Fasten off CC1 and continue in main color as follows:
Row 1: K.
Row 2: P
Row 2:  K1 (3, 0), work row 1 of the cable pattern 3 (3, 4) times, k 5 (7 , 2). Continue in pattern as set, increasing 1 st at both ends of every 4 ( 4, 5)th row, 17 times. [76, (80, 80 sts)]. Note: work the increased sts in st st. Continue in pattern until the piece measures 11.25 (12.5, 14) inches from the start, ending with a WS row, bind off.
FINISHING:
Neckband:
Join right shoulder seam. With 3.5 mm circular needles and CC1 (RS facing), join yarn, pick up and knit 41(43, 45) stitches down the left neck front, PM (place marker), K1 at the front center, PM, pick up and knit 42(44,46) sts across the right neck front and 30 sts across the back. [114(118, 122) sts]
Row 2 (WS): P till 2 sts before the marker, p2tog, sk marker, p1, sk marker, ssp (slip st purlwise), p to the end.
Row 3: K till 2 sts before marker, ssk, M(marker), k1, M, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times (i.e. 6 more rows), working initial three rows in CC2 and the last three rows in CC1 again.
Join MC and repeat row 2 once, then work in k2,p2 rib for 5 rows, working decreases before the 2 markers as before (k center st on RS and p on WS). Bind off loosely in rib.

Sew together the left shoulder seam and the sleeves and side seams. Weave in the loose ends.

[1]
© copyright ummeyusuf , 2008 http://ummeyusuf.blogspot.com/
This pattern is for personal, non-profit use only.

Crocheted moccasin

I just did these over the past three days. These turned out great.I used two strands of DK acrylic yarn. It is a local Pakistani yarn, looks nice and sturdy. However as someone mentioned at crochetville, this pattern would look still better in suede. It is done entirely in sc with some sl st at the finish. I had to redo the first foot to get the fit exactly right but still I finished it in two evenings. That may also be due to the fact that I had been starving myself off knitting and crochet for the past few weeks.

This is a very easy and quick pattern in which the length of the slipper is personalized and adjusted according to your required size. So it works well for all adult sizes.

Get the pdf of pattern here.

Peach Blossoms

When I bought this yarn to make a sweater for my daughter, I thought of flowers,blossoms to be exact. Also I thought of a turtle neck and a scalloped border to dres it up a little. So that's how I started and came up with this. It has blossoms all over the front with a plain back and sleeves and a turtle neck with back opening which makes changing of clothes easier. I have also made a matching cap to round off the outfit. I am really happy the way it turned out and so I decided to share the pattern. My only advice, read carefully through the pattern first. Notify me about mistakes if any. (I will try to get a better pic tomorrow)

PEACH BLOSSOMS

Material:
· Bambino DK 5-ply yarn (100 gm+300 meters/ ball) 2 balls or any yarn that gets the correct gauge
· Knitting needles size 3.50 mm and 4.00 mm
· Tapestry needle
· Matching buttons 3

Size: 2-3 years

Finished measurements: chest 24 inches Length 15 inches

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows = 2 inches in st st with 4.00mm needles

Special abbreviations:
C2BP: Sl next st to cable needle and leave at back of work; k1 then p1 from cn.
C2FP: Sl next st to cable needle and leave in front of work; p1 then k1 from cn.
Bobble: work 4 sts (k,p,k,p)into this st,turn and knit one row on these 4 sts, turn and k4tog.

Blossoms pattern: worked on multiples of( 7+7)sts.
Row 1(RS): P2, k3, p9.
Row 2(WS): work as set.
Row 3: P1, C2BP, k1, C2FP, P8.
Row 4: work as set.
Row 5: C2BP, p1, k1,p1,C2FP,p7.
Row 6:work as set.
Row 7:Bobble,p2,k1,p2,Bobble,p7.
Row 8:k10,p1,k3.
Row 9: P3,bobble,p10.
Row 10: K
Row 11: P
Row 12: K
Row 13: P9, k3, p2.
Row 14: work as set.
Row 15: P8, C2BP, k1, C2FP, P1.
Row 16: work as set.
Row 17: P7, C2BP, p1, k1,p1,C2FP.
Row 18: work as set.
Row 19: P7, Bobble,p2,k1,p2,Bobble.
Row 20:K3,p1,k10.
Row 21:P3, Bobble, p10.
Row 22: K
Row 23: P
Row 24: K
These 24 rows form the pattern.

Pullover:
Back:
With 4.00 mm needles cast on 68 sts.
Row 1(WS): knit.
Row 2(RS): *K2tog,inc 1 st in the next st, k2,increase 1 st in next st , k2tog*, repeat from * to * till 4 st remains,k2tog, inc 1 st in tht next st, k1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice. These six rows form the rib.
Now work in st st, starting with a P row, at the same time decreasing one st at both ends of every 14th row, 4 times.(60 sts) Work a total of 69 rows or until the piece measures 10 inches from the beginning.
Continuing to work in st st, cast of 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, then cast off 1 st at the beg of next 4 rows.(52 sts) Work even for a total of 82 rows in st st, ending with a K row.
Next row( divide for the button band):
P 25, put these sts on a needle holder, bind off next 2 sts, P to the end.
Working on the last 25 sts, continue to work in st st till the back measures 15 inches from the beginning. Bind off.
Now transfer the s5 sts from the needle holder, join yarn and knit equal number of rows in st st on this side as well. Bind off.

Front:
With 4.00 mm needles cast on 68 sts.
Row 1(WS): knit.
Row 2(RS): *K2tog,inc 1 st in the next st, k2,increase 1 st in next st , k2tog*, repeat from * to * till 4 st remains,k2tog, inc 1 st in the next st, k1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice. These six rows form the rib.
From the next row, start working in the Blossoms pattern as follows:
Row 1: P3, work row 1 of the pattern(4 +1/2 times) until 2 sts remain, p2.
Row 2 : work as set.
Row 3: P3, work row 3 of the pattern(4 +1/2 times) until 2 sts remain, p2.
And so on. Continue working in this manner for 72 rows, AT THE SAME TIME, decrease 1 st at both ends of every 14th row, 4 times(60 sts)
Shape armholes:
Bind off 2 sts in the beg of next 2 rows while continuing to work in pattern as set and then decrease 1 st at the beg of next 4 rows.(52 sts)
Work further 6 rows in pattern.
Next row: P4, k3, p11,k3,p4,k2,p5,k3,p11,k3,p3.
Next row: K3,p3,k11,p3,k4,p4,k3,p3,k11,p3,k4.
Next row: P3, C2BP, k1, C2FP, P9, C2BP,k1,C2FP,p1,k6,p2, C2BP, k1, C2FP, P9, C2BP,k1,C2FP,p2.
Next row: K2, (p1, k1) twice, p1,k9, (p1,k1) twice, p1, k1, p8, (p1,k1) twice, p1, k9, (p1,k1) twice, p1, k3.
Next row:P2, C2BP, p1, k1, p1, C2FP, P7, C2BP, p1, k1, p1, k10, p2, k1, p1, C2FP, p7, C2BP, p1, k1,p1, C2FP,p1.
Next row: K1, p1, (k2, p1) twice, k7, p1, k2, p1, k1, p13, k2, p1 , k7, p1, (k2,p1) twice, k2.
Next row: P2, Bobble, p2,k1,p2,Bobble, p7, Bobble,p2, k15, p2, Bobble, p7,Bobble, p2, k1, p2, Bobble, p1.
Next row: K4, p1, k12, p17, K12, p1, k5.
Next row: P5, Bobble, p11, k19 , p11, Bobble, p4.
Next row: K15, p21, k16.
Shape neck:
Next row: P15, K8, put the next 6 sts on a holding needle, turn and work on the first 23 st:
Next row (WS): P9,k14.
Next row: p13, k10.
Next row: P2tog, p9, k12.
Next row: P11, k11.
Next row: P2tog, p10, k10.
Next row: p9, k12.
Next row: P2tog, p11, k8.
Next row: p 7, k13.
Next row: P2tog, p12, k6.
Next row: k5, p14.
Next row: P2tog, p13, k4.
Next row: k3, k15.
Next row: k16, p2.
Next row: K1, p17.
Next row: k18.
Continue in st st until piece equals back in length, bind off.
Join yarn and knit the other side of neck, reversing the shaping and pattern.

Sleeves ( make 2):
With 4.00 mm needles cast on 34 sts.
Row 1(WS): knit.
Row 2(RS): K1,*K2tog,inc 1 st in the next st, k2,increase 1 st in next st , k2tog*, repeat from * to * till 1 st remains, k 1.
Now work in st st, starting with a P row, at the same time increasing one st at both ends of every 6th row,12 times.(58 sts) Work a total of 79 rows. Bind off.

Finishing: Sew the shoulder seams.
Turtle neck: With the right side facing and smaller needles, join yarn and pick up and k 8 sts across the left side of neck at back and 14 sts across the left neck front, pick and knit 6 sts from the holding needle, 14 sts across the right neck front and 8 across the right back.(50 sts) Work in k1,p1 for 25 rows. Bind off loosely in rib.

Button bands: Fold the ribbed turtle neck outwards into half and pin in place.
Right button band: Join yarn and with RS facing and smaller needles, pick up and k 30 sts evenly spaced over the folded edge of the turtle neck and the right button edge at back. Knit in k1,p1 rib for 3 rows, bind off in rib.
Left buttonhole band: Join yarn and with RS facing and smaller needles, pick up and k 30 sts evenly spaced over the folded edge of the turtle neck and the left button edge at back. Work 1 row in rib. On second row make 3 buttonholes evenly spaced (yo, k2tog). Work another row and then cast off in rib.
Sew the side and sleeves seams and sew on the buttons.

Cap:
With 3.50 mm needles, cast on 98 sts. Work 8 rows in k1,p1 rib.
Next row: Change to larger needles, K all.
Next row: P.
Next row: K 3,*p1, k6* repeat from *to* till 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Next row: P2, *k3, p4, repeat from *to* till 5 sts remain, k3, p2.
Next row: K 1,*p5, k2* repeat from *to* till 6 sts remain, p5, k1.
Next row: K.
Work first 12 rows of the blossoms pattern next. Then work in st st for 10 rows ending with a WS row.
Shaping:
Row 1: (P14, p2tog)repeat to the end.
Row 2 and all WS rows: K
Row 3: (P13, p2tog)repeat to the end
Row 5: (P12, p2tog)repeat to the end
Row 7: (P11, p2tog)repeat to the end
Row 9: (P10, p2tog)repeat to the end
Row 11: (P9, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 13: (P8, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 15: (P7, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 17: (P6, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 19: (P5, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 21: (P4, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 23: (P3, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 25: (P2, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 27: (P1, p2tog) repeat to the end.
Row 28: K2tog, across(7 sts).
Cut of yarn, leaving a sizable length and thread it through a needle. Thread the needle through all the sts, pull and secure tightly. Sew up the seam.

Lateral cable socks with toe

At last, I am done with my first socks pattern. First I started with another colorway, but later on, I realized that I did not have enough yarn. So I started anew with this. Though these are not the best colors, I am very happy with the pattern. Yay! Now back to the cardigan for some simple mindless knitting in the midst of my ever piling-up chores.

Lateral cable socks with toes

Material:
· 3-ply yarn or yarn that gets the correct guage.
· A set of four dpns size 3.00 mm.
· Tapestry needle
· A length of waste yarn

Gauge: 14 sts x 22 rows= 2 inches in st st with 3.00 mm needles

Size: women’s medium (9.5 inches)

Cable Pattern: worked on 6 sts.
Row 1: P1, k4, p1.
Row 2: P1, put next 2 sts on a cable needle at the back of work, k next 2 sts, k the 2 sts from cable needle, p1.
Row 3: As row 1.
Row 4: As row 1.
Repeat these 4 rows. With experience, you can work this cable with out a cable needle.

Method:

Right sock:
With double strand and thumb-cast-on method, cast on 54 sts. Divide the sts evenly on 3 DPNs, and making sure these are not twisted, prepare to work the first round.
Round 1-8: Work in k1,p1 rib for these 8 rounds.Round 9: P1, K4, p1, knit to the end.
Round 10-32: work cable pattern over first 6 sts, k to the end.
Transfer the last 27 sts of the round onto one needle(# 1),on which the heel flap will be knit, while dividing the rest of sts evenly onto two other dpns(needles # 2 and 3).

Heel flap: Turn and work on needle #1 as follows:
Row 1(WS): sl 1, (p1, sl 1) to the end.
Row 2: k1, (sl 1, k1) to the end.
Repeat these two rows 16 times. Then proceed to turning the heel:
Next row: Sl 1, p 17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl 1, k 8, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, p9 p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl1, k 10, ssk k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1,p 11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 12, ssk,k1,turn.
Next row: sl 1, p 13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 14, ssk, k1.
Without turning pick up and knit 17 sts across the side of heel flap. Then knit the sts on needles # 2 and 3 as set, pick up and knit 17sts across the other side of heel flap. Distribute all these sts onto three dpns as follows: All sts which were on needles# 2 and three onto one needle(#B these will form the top of foot),. Divide the rest of sts onto needles#A and C.
Round 1: Work as set.
Round 2: Knit until 3 sts remain on needle#A, k2tog, k1, Knit across needle# B (first 6 sts in cable pattern as set), On needle# C, k1, ssk, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rounds until a sum of 27 sts remain on needles# A and C.
Work as set for a further 36 rows. Break yarn leaving a long length.

Divide for Toes:
Thread a length of waste thread onto a tapestry needle and thread through all the sts, starting from needle #C, then #A, and then #B and remove the needles. Now the sts are arranged such that the two ends of the waste yarn lie on the inner side of the foot. (Sts on the right of the waste yarn’s free ends form the top of foot while those on left form the bottom.

Big Toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 9 sts to the immediate right of waste yarn’s free ends(these form the top of big toe), then pick up and knit 9 sts on the other side of free ends(these form the bottom) , cast on 3 sts. (21 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (K2tog, k 3) till 1 st remains, k1.(17 sts)
Next round: Knit.
Next round: (k2tog, k1) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of big toe) on the wrong side.

Second toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of big toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of big toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of big toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 2nd big toe) on the wrong side.

Third toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of 2nd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of2nd toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of 2nd toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 12 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fourth toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 4 sts to the immediate right of 3rd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 3rd toe, pick up and knit 4 sts to the immediate left of 3rd toe, cast on 3 sts. (14 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 10 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fifth toe:
Join yarn and pick up the remaining 8 sts, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 4rd toe. (11 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 8 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Left Sock:
With double strand and thumb-cast-on method, cast on 54 sts. Divide the sts evenly on 3 DPNs, and making sure these are not twisted, prepare to work the first round.
Round 1-8: Work in k1,p1 rib for these 8 rounds.
Round 9: K to the last 6 sts, p1,k4, p1.
Round 10-32: K to the last 6 sts, work cable pattern over the last 6.
Transfer the first 27 sts of the round onto one needle(# 1),on which the heel flap will be knit, while dividing the rest of sts evenly onto two other dpns(needles # 2 and 3).

Heel flap: Turn and work on needle #1 as follows:
Row 1(WS): sl 1, (p1, sl 1) to the end.
Row 2: k1, (sl 1, k1) to the end.
Repeat these two rows 16 times. Then proceed to turning the heel:
Next row: Sl 1, p 17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl 1, k 8, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, p9 p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl1, k 10, ssk k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1,p 11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 12, ssk,k1,turn.
Next row: sl 1, p 13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 14, ssk, k1.
Without turning pick up and knit 17 sts across the side of heel flap. Then knit the sts on needles # 2 and 3 as set, pick up and knit 17sts across the other side of heel flap. Distribute all thes sts onto three dpns as follows: All sts which were on needles# 2 and 3 onto one needle(#B these will form the top of foot),. Divide the rest of sts onto needles#A and C.
Round 1: Work as set.
Round 2: Knit until 3 sts remain on needle#A, k2tog, k1, Knit across needle# B (last 6 sts in cable pattern as set), On needle# C, k1, ssk, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rounds until a sum of 27 sts remain on needles# A and C.
Work as set for a further 36 rows. Break yarn leaving a long length.

Divide for Toes:
Thread a length of waste thread onto a tapestry needle and thread through all the sts, starting from needle #B, then #C, and then #A and remove the needles. Now the sts are arranged such that the two ends of the waste yarn lie on the inner side of the foot. (Sts on the right of the waste yarn’s free ends form the bottom of foot while those on left form the top.

Big Toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 9 sts to the immediate right of waste yarn’s free ends(these form the bottom of big toe), then pick up and knit 9 sts on the other side of free ends(these form the top) , cast on 3 sts. (21 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (K2tog, k 3) till 1 st remains, k1.(17 sts)
Next round: Knit.
Next round: (k2tog, k1) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of big toe) on the wrong side.

Second toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of big toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of big toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of big toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 2nd big toe) on the wrong side.

Third toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of 2nd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of2nd toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of 2nd toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 12 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fourth toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 4 sts to the immediate right of 3rd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 3rd toe, pick up and knit 4 sts to the immediate left of 3rd toe, cast on 3 sts. (14 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 10 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fifth toe:
Join yarn and pick up the remaining 8 sts, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 4rd toe. (11 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 8 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Finishing:
Weave in any loose ends. It is best to weave in the loose ends of each toe right when the toe is done, closing any hole that may occur in between the toes at the same time.

Rainbow Spikes Bag

I just finished this bag yesterday. The material for this bag is the same as that for indigo bag. I love the way it has turned out. I love colors and especially those in a rainbow. Also I love butterflies. Plus I also love bags.

Here is the pattern, not tested of course.

Rainbow spikes bag

Material:· WW cotton in nine colors__deep red, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet , and purplish brown.(I used hand-dyed material)
· Crochet hook size 4.5 mm.
· Small butterfly shaped beads in assorted colors
· Fabric for lining
· A zipper.
· Size 10 black thread.

Size: 8.5 x 12 inches excluding strap

Gauge: 7 sts x 8 rows in 2 inches (working in sc only.

Special stitch: Spike st.Sp-1: work 1 sc by passing yarn through the st directly below on the row below the working row.
Sp-2: work 1 sc by passing yarn through the st directly below on the 2nd row below the working row.
Sp-3: work 1 sc by passing yarn through the st directly below on the 3rd row below the working row.

Method:Body:
Using red, ch 70, join with sl st in first ch, taking care not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1-6: ch1, 1 sc in the first st, then 1 sc in each st, throughout, join.(70sts)
Cut off red yarn and join orange.
Rnd 7: ch 1, *1 sc in the first sc, Sp-1 in next, Sp-2 in next, Sp-3 in next 2 sc, Sp-2 in next sc, Sp-1 in next sc**, sc in next sc, rep from * to **nine times, jn.
Rnd 8-11: repeat rnd 1. Cut off orange and join yellow.
Rnd 12: ch 1, *Sp-3 in 1st sc, Sp-2 in next, Sp-1 in next, sc in next sc, Sp-1 in next, Sp-2 in next, Sp-3 in next sc**, rep from * to ** nine times, join.
Rnd 13-16 : repeat rnd 1. Cut off yellow and join green.
Rnd 17: Repeat rnd 7.
Rnd 18-21: repeat rnd 1. Cut off green and join blue.
Rnd 22: Repeat rnd 12.
Rnd 23-26: repeat rnd 1. Cut off blue and join indigo.
Rnd 27: Repeat rnd 7.
Rnd 28-31: Repeat rnd 1. Cut off indigo and join violet.
Rnd 32: Repeat rnd 12.
Rnd 33-36: Repeat rnd 1. Fasten off.

Bottom:With deep red, ch 29,
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch across to the last ch, 4 sc in the last ch, 1 sc in other side of each of the next 26 ch, 2 sc in last, join with sl st. (60 sts)
Round 2: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each of next 26 sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each of next 26 sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last, jn.(64 sc)
Round 3: ch1, 2 sc in the 1st sc, 1 sc in each of next 29 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in each of next 29 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, join . Do not break yarn.

Strap:Thread the beads on a size 10 black thread. Working with both this thread and purplish black yarn, ch 72.
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch across, turn.
Row 2: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, working one bead in position at every alternate sc.
Row 3: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 4: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, working one bead in position at every alternate sc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc across, fasten off.

Finishing:
Join bottom to the body of the bag with sl st using deep red.
Attach strap to upper margins on each side. Sew lining in place and a zipper along the upper margin of the bag.