Lateral cable socks with toe

At last, I am done with my first socks pattern. First I started with another colorway, but later on, I realized that I did not have enough yarn. So I started anew with this. Though these are not the best colors, I am very happy with the pattern. Yay! Now back to the cardigan for some simple mindless knitting in the midst of my ever piling-up chores.

Lateral cable socks with toes

Material:
· 3-ply yarn or yarn that gets the correct guage.
· A set of four dpns size 3.00 mm.
· Tapestry needle
· A length of waste yarn

Gauge: 14 sts x 22 rows= 2 inches in st st with 3.00 mm needles

Size: women’s medium (9.5 inches)

Cable Pattern: worked on 6 sts.
Row 1: P1, k4, p1.
Row 2: P1, put next 2 sts on a cable needle at the back of work, k next 2 sts, k the 2 sts from cable needle, p1.
Row 3: As row 1.
Row 4: As row 1.
Repeat these 4 rows. With experience, you can work this cable with out a cable needle.

Method:

Right sock:
With double strand and thumb-cast-on method, cast on 54 sts. Divide the sts evenly on 3 DPNs, and making sure these are not twisted, prepare to work the first round.
Round 1-8: Work in k1,p1 rib for these 8 rounds.Round 9: P1, K4, p1, knit to the end.
Round 10-32: work cable pattern over first 6 sts, k to the end.
Transfer the last 27 sts of the round onto one needle(# 1),on which the heel flap will be knit, while dividing the rest of sts evenly onto two other dpns(needles # 2 and 3).

Heel flap: Turn and work on needle #1 as follows:
Row 1(WS): sl 1, (p1, sl 1) to the end.
Row 2: k1, (sl 1, k1) to the end.
Repeat these two rows 16 times. Then proceed to turning the heel:
Next row: Sl 1, p 17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl 1, k 8, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, p9 p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl1, k 10, ssk k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1,p 11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 12, ssk,k1,turn.
Next row: sl 1, p 13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 14, ssk, k1.
Without turning pick up and knit 17 sts across the side of heel flap. Then knit the sts on needles # 2 and 3 as set, pick up and knit 17sts across the other side of heel flap. Distribute all these sts onto three dpns as follows: All sts which were on needles# 2 and three onto one needle(#B these will form the top of foot),. Divide the rest of sts onto needles#A and C.
Round 1: Work as set.
Round 2: Knit until 3 sts remain on needle#A, k2tog, k1, Knit across needle# B (first 6 sts in cable pattern as set), On needle# C, k1, ssk, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rounds until a sum of 27 sts remain on needles# A and C.
Work as set for a further 36 rows. Break yarn leaving a long length.

Divide for Toes:
Thread a length of waste thread onto a tapestry needle and thread through all the sts, starting from needle #C, then #A, and then #B and remove the needles. Now the sts are arranged such that the two ends of the waste yarn lie on the inner side of the foot. (Sts on the right of the waste yarn’s free ends form the top of foot while those on left form the bottom.

Big Toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 9 sts to the immediate right of waste yarn’s free ends(these form the top of big toe), then pick up and knit 9 sts on the other side of free ends(these form the bottom) , cast on 3 sts. (21 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (K2tog, k 3) till 1 st remains, k1.(17 sts)
Next round: Knit.
Next round: (k2tog, k1) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of big toe) on the wrong side.

Second toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of big toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of big toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of big toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 2nd big toe) on the wrong side.

Third toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of 2nd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of2nd toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of 2nd toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 12 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fourth toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 4 sts to the immediate right of 3rd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 3rd toe, pick up and knit 4 sts to the immediate left of 3rd toe, cast on 3 sts. (14 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 10 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fifth toe:
Join yarn and pick up the remaining 8 sts, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 4rd toe. (11 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 8 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Left Sock:
With double strand and thumb-cast-on method, cast on 54 sts. Divide the sts evenly on 3 DPNs, and making sure these are not twisted, prepare to work the first round.
Round 1-8: Work in k1,p1 rib for these 8 rounds.
Round 9: K to the last 6 sts, p1,k4, p1.
Round 10-32: K to the last 6 sts, work cable pattern over the last 6.
Transfer the first 27 sts of the round onto one needle(# 1),on which the heel flap will be knit, while dividing the rest of sts evenly onto two other dpns(needles # 2 and 3).

Heel flap: Turn and work on needle #1 as follows:
Row 1(WS): sl 1, (p1, sl 1) to the end.
Row 2: k1, (sl 1, k1) to the end.
Repeat these two rows 16 times. Then proceed to turning the heel:
Next row: Sl 1, p 17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl 1, k 8, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, p9 p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl1, k 10, ssk k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1,p 11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 12, ssk,k1,turn.
Next row: sl 1, p 13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 14, ssk, k1.
Without turning pick up and knit 17 sts across the side of heel flap. Then knit the sts on needles # 2 and 3 as set, pick up and knit 17sts across the other side of heel flap. Distribute all thes sts onto three dpns as follows: All sts which were on needles# 2 and 3 onto one needle(#B these will form the top of foot),. Divide the rest of sts onto needles#A and C.
Round 1: Work as set.
Round 2: Knit until 3 sts remain on needle#A, k2tog, k1, Knit across needle# B (last 6 sts in cable pattern as set), On needle# C, k1, ssk, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rounds until a sum of 27 sts remain on needles# A and C.
Work as set for a further 36 rows. Break yarn leaving a long length.

Divide for Toes:
Thread a length of waste thread onto a tapestry needle and thread through all the sts, starting from needle #B, then #C, and then #A and remove the needles. Now the sts are arranged such that the two ends of the waste yarn lie on the inner side of the foot. (Sts on the right of the waste yarn’s free ends form the bottom of foot while those on left form the top.

Big Toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 9 sts to the immediate right of waste yarn’s free ends(these form the bottom of big toe), then pick up and knit 9 sts on the other side of free ends(these form the top) , cast on 3 sts. (21 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (K2tog, k 3) till 1 st remains, k1.(17 sts)
Next round: Knit.
Next round: (k2tog, k1) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of big toe) on the wrong side.

Second toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of big toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of big toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of big toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 2nd big toe) on the wrong side.

Third toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of 2nd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of2nd toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of 2nd toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 12 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fourth toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 4 sts to the immediate right of 3rd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 3rd toe, pick up and knit 4 sts to the immediate left of 3rd toe, cast on 3 sts. (14 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 10 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fifth toe:
Join yarn and pick up the remaining 8 sts, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 4rd toe. (11 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 8 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Finishing:
Weave in any loose ends. It is best to weave in the loose ends of each toe right when the toe is done, closing any hole that may occur in between the toes at the same time.

Diamonds socks

I finished these socks for the sockdown a few days back. However we are having our Eid nowadays.Today is the third day of the three-day long islamic celebration, so I have obviously been busy. Had a lovely time.

I also started another pair of socks, these of my own design, but now I am worried that I may not have enough yarn... well, we will see in a few days. Also, as a quickie project, I made this book thong. Pattern is from Crochet me.

Oh temptation...

I know I said I have a lot of important stuff lined up for the next few months. And that I would work on my WIPs only. So, I am working on that crdigan for dh, but surely I could knit a pair of socks in two months. Whew, the temptation was great and I gave in just this once (I hope). So I have started this sock for the sockdown at sock knitters anonymous forum at ravelry. I have to finish the pair and post it on the forum by Jan 31, to be in the running for some fabulous yarn.

I have used some old yarn from my stash and touched it up a little with dyes. I am using the generic sock pattern from Kate Gilbert as a general guide with some lace diamonds of my own. It is turning out quite nice.

Slow and steady

I will be slowing down (unwillingly) in the knitting and crochet department during the next few months as I have a very busy schedule. That is why I am not taking on any major new project. But as I do not think that I can survive long with absolutely no craft, I will be making steady progress on my WIPs. Currently I am doing a cardigan for dh. It's more than half done.Inshallah I will finish it this season.

My First socks

I had always wondered about all the hype and mania regarding knitted socks. Then I decided to give it a try and made my first pair. Now I can say that I truely enjoyed knitting socks and my feet are enjoying these socks even more. The pattern is Cinderella from Knitty.

Rainbow Spikes Bag

I just finished this bag yesterday. The material for this bag is the same as that for indigo bag. I love the way it has turned out. I love colors and especially those in a rainbow. Also I love butterflies. Plus I also love bags.

Here is the pattern, not tested of course.

Rainbow spikes bag

Material:· WW cotton in nine colors__deep red, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet , and purplish brown.(I used hand-dyed material)
· Crochet hook size 4.5 mm.
· Small butterfly shaped beads in assorted colors
· Fabric for lining
· A zipper.
· Size 10 black thread.

Size: 8.5 x 12 inches excluding strap

Gauge: 7 sts x 8 rows in 2 inches (working in sc only.

Special stitch: Spike st.Sp-1: work 1 sc by passing yarn through the st directly below on the row below the working row.
Sp-2: work 1 sc by passing yarn through the st directly below on the 2nd row below the working row.
Sp-3: work 1 sc by passing yarn through the st directly below on the 3rd row below the working row.

Method:Body:
Using red, ch 70, join with sl st in first ch, taking care not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1-6: ch1, 1 sc in the first st, then 1 sc in each st, throughout, join.(70sts)
Cut off red yarn and join orange.
Rnd 7: ch 1, *1 sc in the first sc, Sp-1 in next, Sp-2 in next, Sp-3 in next 2 sc, Sp-2 in next sc, Sp-1 in next sc**, sc in next sc, rep from * to **nine times, jn.
Rnd 8-11: repeat rnd 1. Cut off orange and join yellow.
Rnd 12: ch 1, *Sp-3 in 1st sc, Sp-2 in next, Sp-1 in next, sc in next sc, Sp-1 in next, Sp-2 in next, Sp-3 in next sc**, rep from * to ** nine times, join.
Rnd 13-16 : repeat rnd 1. Cut off yellow and join green.
Rnd 17: Repeat rnd 7.
Rnd 18-21: repeat rnd 1. Cut off green and join blue.
Rnd 22: Repeat rnd 12.
Rnd 23-26: repeat rnd 1. Cut off blue and join indigo.
Rnd 27: Repeat rnd 7.
Rnd 28-31: Repeat rnd 1. Cut off indigo and join violet.
Rnd 32: Repeat rnd 12.
Rnd 33-36: Repeat rnd 1. Fasten off.

Bottom:With deep red, ch 29,
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch across to the last ch, 4 sc in the last ch, 1 sc in other side of each of the next 26 ch, 2 sc in last, join with sl st. (60 sts)
Round 2: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each of next 26 sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each of next 26 sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last, jn.(64 sc)
Round 3: ch1, 2 sc in the 1st sc, 1 sc in each of next 29 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in each of next 29 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, join . Do not break yarn.

Strap:Thread the beads on a size 10 black thread. Working with both this thread and purplish black yarn, ch 72.
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch across, turn.
Row 2: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, working one bead in position at every alternate sc.
Row 3: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 4: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, working one bead in position at every alternate sc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc across, fasten off.

Finishing:
Join bottom to the body of the bag with sl st using deep red.
Attach strap to upper margins on each side. Sew lining in place and a zipper along the upper margin of the bag.

Mohawk hat

Seeing a couple of such hats at crochetville, I was tempted to make one for my son. So here is mine It has had mixed success. My son is undecided whether he likes it or not while my husband thinks it's "funny" but "ok for a kid".

Currently I am working on a bag (yeah) and a pair of socks.That would be my first pair for adults.

Toddler poncho and hat

I made this poncho and hat for my daughter. The poncho is poncho#2 of Aggie May's. The hat I made up myself. These are quick and easy and poncho pattern is great. This was my first baby poncho and I am very happy with it. I used up scraps of yarn from my little stash and it ended up very bright and eye-catching, a sharp contrast from the baby pastels that I had made uptil now for my daughter.

Flower toddler slippers

I had been wanting to make slippers for my daughter for some days, especially since I had made a pair for my son last year. Finally a did make a pair a couple of days back and my daughter actually likes them (I think so) because she actually wore them and did not pull them off.

Flower toddler slippers

Materials:
· Acrylic yarn DK Rose pink and small amount of fluorescent green.
· Crochet hook size 3.5mm or one needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 8 sts x 5 rows =2 inches (in DC)

Size: approx 6 inches long

Method: (Make two)
Rnd 1: Chain 3, join with sl st to form a loop. Ch 3, 9 dc in the loop, jn with sl st to the 3rd ch of initial ch3.Turn.
Rnd 2: Ch3, 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next , *(2 dc in next dc) twice, 1dc in next dc, rep from * once, 2 dc in last dc, jn. Turn.(17 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ( 2dc in next dc) twice, 1 dc in next 6dc,, (2 dc in next dc) twice, 1 dc in next 3 dc, join.Turn.(21 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, 1 dc in next 4 dc, (2 dc in next dc )twice, 1 dc in next 8 dc (2 dc in next dc) twice, 1 dc in next 4 dc, jn. Turn.(25 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch3, 1 dc in next 5 dc 92 dc in next dc )twice, 1 dc in next 10 dc, (2 dc in next dc )twice, 1 dc in next 5 dc, jn. Turn.(29 dc)
Rnd 6-9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each dc throughout, jn and turn.
From here on slipper is worked in rows, not rounds.
Row 10 -15: Ch 3, 1 dc in each dc throughout. Turn.
Row 16: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, dec 1 st over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in next, dec 1 st over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, turn.
Row 17: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, dec 1 st over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in next, dec 1 st over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc. Fasten off.

Flower: ( make 2) With green, ch 2, work 6 sc in the 1st ch, join with sl st.
Rnd 2: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 2 sc in each of next 5 sc, jn.
Rnd 3: ch 5,sl into the same st, sl in next sc, rep from to the end. Fasten off.(12 petals)

Finishing:
Sew the back seam on both slippers. Sew flower onto each slipper.

It calls for a little celebration!!

I am treating my family to a pizza and soda tonight (pizza is not a routine food for us). The reason? I had promised my husband to have a pizza when visitors to my blog reached the 10,000 mark. That was today, mashallah. So we are marking this happy occassion, thank you all visitors. Here we share our pizza with you:

Brownie bag

This is my latest bag. Knitted this time, made from the same home-dyed cotton. The name "brownie bag" is my husband's brilliant idea.

BROWNIE BAG

Materials:
· Brown worsted weight cotton (or any which gets the right gauge)
· Knitting needles 6.5 mm.
· Fabric for lining
· Crochet hook 4.5 mm
· Closure clasp.

Size: 12 x 9 inches excluding strap.

Gauge: 6 sts x 9 rows = 2 inches.

Pattern:
Row 1 (RS): K
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K 3, *P3, K 3, rep from * to the end.
Row 4: P 3, *K3, P 3 rep from * to the end.
Row 5 and 6: Rep rows 3 and 4.
Row 7: rep row 1.
Row 8: rep row 2.
Row 9: P 3, *K3, P 3 rep from * to the end.
Row 10: K 3, *P3, K 3, rep from * to the end.
Row 11 and 12: rep rows 9 and 10.

Method:
Bag body:
Cast on 39 sts and work in pattern for a total of 86 rows. Bind off loosely.

Strap:
Cast on 8 sts and work in seed st for a total of 82 rows. Bind off.

Closure:
With same yarn and crochet hook, work 6 sc in the metal closure clasp (see pics). Ch 1 turn. Next row: 1 sc in each sc, ch1 turn.
Repeat to a total of 12 rows, fasten off.

Finishing:
Fold the body piece into half with right side facing and sew up the sides.
Turn out the piece and sew the clasp ring in place 5 inches down the upper margin making sure that it is midway between the two sides.
Sew the closure at the back about 3 inches from the top.
Sew the lining, with a small zippered pocket along the back.
Sew the handle in place.
Now make a fold over the lower edges (lining and all) about 1.5 inches wide and pin in over the side seams on both sides. Sew these folds to the side seam. This gives the bag a more rounded look.

Cars crayon bag

I made this yesterday for my son. The pattern is jungle crayon bag from freepatterns.com. I had promised this to my son a few months ago. He is very fond of drawing and colors. This is a very easy pattern. I was planning to use solid colors with only front two car panels but my son wanted "a lot of cars" so I did the entire thing in car print. He is very happy with it and that's the real thing.

Indigo bag

Here, I am finished with this one bag. And here is the pattern for all. A word of caution though, I have not tested this pattern, however it's fairly simple and I am here to answer any questions.

Indigo bag

Materials:· Cotton yarn (I bought thick cotton tying thread balls from hardware store and dyed them) equivalent to worsted weight or any that gets the correct gauge. Indigo and cream.
· Crochet hook 4.50 mm
· Tapestry needle and thread
· Fabric for lining
· A metal buckle
· Magnetic snap or Velcro for closure
· Zipper for inside pocket (optional)

Size: 9.5 x 5.5 inches excluding strap.

Gauge: 7 sts x 8 row = 2 inches in Tunisian st.

Method:This bag is done mostly in Tunisian st with a little bit of sc.
Body (front and back): make 2.
With indigo, ch 35 + 2 .
Row 1: work Tunisian st starting from 3rd ch on hook. (36 sts)
Row 2: Work basic Tunisian st over the 36 sts.
Row 3: same as row 2 with one decrease 1 st inside from both ends.(34 sts)
Row 4 and 5: As row 2.
Row 6: as row 3.(32 sts)
Row 7 and 8: same as row 2.
Row 9: same as row 3.(30 sts)
Row 10 and 11: same as row 2.
Row 12: same as row 3.(28 sts)
Row 13 and 14: same as row 2.
Row 15: same as row 3.(26 sts)
Row 16 -17: same as row 2.
Cast off by working a sl st into each row. Fasten off.

Gusset:With cream, ch 5 + 2.
Row 1: work Tunisian st starting from 3rd ch on hook.(6 sts)
Row 2-4: Work basic Tunisian st over the 6 sts.
Row 5: same as row 2 with one increase 1 st inside from both ends.(8 sts)
Row 6-8: same as row 2.
Row 9: same as row 5.(10 sts)
Row 10-12: same as row 2.
Row 13: same as row 5.(12 sts)
Row 14-16: same as row 2.
Row 17: same as row 5. (14 sts)
Row 18-50: same as row 2.
Row 51: Work basic Tunisian st with one decrease 1 st inside from both ends.(12 sts)
Row 52-54: same as row 2.
Row 55: basic Tunisian st with one decrease 1 st inside from both ends.(10 sts)
Row 56-58: same as row 2.
Row 59: basic Tunisian st with one decrease 1 st inside from both ends.(8 sts)
Row 60-62: same as row 2.
Row 63: basic Tunisian st with one decrease 1 st inside from both ends.(6 sts)
Row 64: same as row 2.
Cast off by working a sl st into each row. Fasten off.

Finishing:Stitch together front, back and gusset using weave stitch.

Flap: Along the upper free edge of one body piece, with cream, work 25 sc, turn.
Row 2-10: ch2, sk 1st sc, one sc in each of next 24 sc. Turn.
Fasten off. Work a row of sc around the free flap edges with 3 sc in each corner. Fasten off.
Join with indigo at the 10th sc of row 10. Work one sc in each of the next 5 sc, turn.
Row 2-13: ch 1, sk 1st sc, one sc in each of next 4 sc, turn.
Fasten off.

Handle/strap: Ribbon 1: Along the one upper free edge of gusset, join with cream and work Tunisian st in 1st 2 sts. Work 60 rows, fasten off.
Ribbon two: work similar to ribbon one, starting in the next 2 sts along the free gusset edge.
Ribbon three: work similar to ribbon one, starting in the last 2 sts along the free gusset edge.
Braid up the three ribbon and stitch them in place at the free gusset edge on the other side. With tapestry needle, stitch up the ribbons to each other along the length of the strap, in order to reinforce the strap.

Buckle: Join with indigo and pick up 2 sc along the horizontal bar on one side of the vertical bar, ch 1, and further 2 sc on the other side of vertical bar. Turn.
Row 2-7: ch 1, sk 1st sc, one sc in each of next 4 sc, turn.Fasten off.
Ch 8, fasten off. Sew in place along both ends of row 2.

Sewing: sew a piece of Velcro to the buckle piece and the bag front. ( or se a magnetic strap instead. Sew and attach lining. I used floral linen. I made a zippered pocket on the inside and used cardboard at the bottom between two layers of fabric.

Side-tracked

I know I had started this month with the intention of working on the two cardigans and to finish them off, but I got side-tracked again. Well, I had had this idea for a while now, so I got some balls of cotton tying string/yarn ( or whatever one might call them) from a hardware store and some dye and dyed them at home. Now I am working on a couple of bags. One is nearly finished and I will post a pattern in 1-2 days, inshallah. The reason I had to dye the yarn from hardware store was because the only yarn available around here is basic acrylic yarn. And I am tired of my bags looking exactly like my sweaters.

It's cardigan time

With the start of winter, my focus has shifted to cardigans in progress. Presently, I am working on two, one for my husband which is about 30% done and the more recent one_Lilac lace_ for myself. It is about 10% done.

I hope to finish both this month, inshallah. Some other ideas for bags, poncho, babay clothing are floating around in my head but I am warding off temptation for the time being. But I can't help myself from spending lots of time on the net.

Bobbles

Inspiration for Bobbles came from this bag. Needless to say, it has a lot of bobbles which may not be to everyone,s liking, but I had never crochet these before so I enjoyed doing it. Also I have to carry around a lot of baby stuff, so I thought it was a classier way to carry it. Crochet part was not very hard but writing down the pattern was. I made the handles myself. Overall I am very pleased with the result.

BOBBLES

Material:· Acrylic yarn (light fingering) off-white ( I used three strands throughout)
· Crochet hook size 4.5 mm
· Fabric for lining
· Cardboard for bottom
· One zipper
· A pair of purse handles (I made mine myself)

Size:

approx. 13 inches in height and 16 inches in width

Gauge:7 dc x 4 rows= 2 inches

Special stitches:
B (bobble): yrh, insert hook into the front loop of st, draw up a long loop,rep 4 times from= 11 loops on hook, yrh, draw through 10 loops, yrh, draw through the 2 loops on the hook.
C1( over three sts): Skip first st, FPDCin 2nd st, yrh, insert hook into the first st, draw up a loop(3 loops on the hook), yrh,draw through 2 loops, insert hook into the third st, draw up a loop(4 loops on hook), yrh, draw through 2 loops, yrh, draw through all 3 loops on the hook.FPDC in 2nd stitch again.
C2( over 2 sts): skip 1st st, FPDC in 2nd st, 1 dc in first st.
C3 (over 2 sts): skip 1st st, 1 dc in 2nd st, FPDC in 1st st.
C4 (over 5 sts): Skip 1st st, 1 dc in each of the next two sts, FPDC tog in the 1st and 5th st, I dc in the 3rd st again and then in the 4th st.
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet.

Method:Three strands of yarn are used through out the piece except for the chain with tassels where I used six.

Body: Chain 110 sts, jn with sl st to the first ch, taking care not to twist the piece.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), work 1 dc in each chain across, jn with sl st to the 3rd ch of the initial ch3. (110 dc).

Round 2 : same as round 1.

Round 3: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, *work B (bobble) in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 18 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, B in next dc**, 1 dc in next 15 dc, rep from* to** once. 1 dc in next 5 dc , jn.(110 sts)

Round 4: same as round 1.

Round 5: same as round 1.

Round 6: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 27 dc, C1 over next 3 dc, 1 dc in each of next 52 dc, C1 over next 3 dc, 1 dc in each of next 24 dc, jn. (110 sts)

Round 7: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 27 dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 52 dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 24 dc, jn.

Round 8: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 16 dc, *B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, C2 over next 2 st, B in next dc, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, B in next dc, I dc in each of next 4 dc, B in next dc.** 1 dc in next 29 dc, rep from* to** once. 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, jn.

Round 9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 26 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 50 dc, FPDC in next st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 23 dc, jn. (110 sts)

Round 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 11 sts,* C1 over next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, B in next st ,C3 in next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, C1 over next 3 dc, **1 dc in each of next 19 dc, rep from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, jn. (110 sts)

Round 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next st, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts. FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next st, FPDC in next st, **1 dc in each of next 19 dc. Rep from* to**once.1 dc in each of next 7 dc, jn.


Round 12: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, *C2 over next 2 sts, B in next dc, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, C2 in next 2 sts. (B in next st, 1 dc in next) twice, B in next st, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, B in next st, C3 over next 2 st**, 1 dc in each of next 17 dc,. Rep from *to **once. 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, jn.

Round 13: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc,* FPDC in next dc , 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 17dc. Rep from* to** once, 1 dc each of next 6 dc, jn.

Round 14: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, *C2 over next 2 sts, B in next, 1 dc in next dc, B in next, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, C3 over next 2 sts, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st ) three times. B in next st, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, B in next, 1 dc in next, B in next, C3 over next 2 sts**. 1 dc in each of next 15 dc, rep from *to** once, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, jn.(110 sts)

Round 15: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st, 1dc in each of next 7 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 9 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 15 sts, rep from* to** once. 1 dc in next 5 dc, jn.

Round 16: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 8 sts, *C2 over next 2 sts, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice, B in next st. C3 over the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st) 4 times, B in next st, C3 over the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts. C2 over next 2 sts, (b in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice, B in next st, C3 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, rep from* to**, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, jn.

Round 17: Ch3, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, *FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 7 st, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 11 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, FPDC in next st.** 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, rep from *to **once, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, jn.

Round 18: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, *C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice, C2 over the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, C3 over next 2 sts (1 dc in next, B in next st) 4 times, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, C3 over next 2 sts, (1 dc in next, B in next st) twice, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, rep from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, jn.( 110 sts)

Round 19: Ch 3, 1 dc in next 9 dc, *FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 9 st, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 15 dc, rep from *to** once, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, jn.

Round 20: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, *C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next , 1 dc in next 3 st, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C3 over next 2 st, (1 dc in next st, B in next st) 3 times, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 15 sts, rep from *to** , 1 dc in each of next 5 sts.

Round 21: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next**, 1 dc in each of next 17 dc, rep from *to** , 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, jn.(110 sts)

Round 22: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, *C4 over 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 9 sts, C 3 over next 2 sts, ( 1 dc in next, B in next st) twice, 1 dc in next st, C 2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, C4 over next 5 sts**, dc in each of next 17 dc, rep from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, jn.

Round 23: Ch 3 , 1 dc in each of next 25 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 5 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in next 48 dc, rep from *to** once. 1 dc in next 22 dc, jn.(110 sts)

Round 24: Ch 3, 1 dc in next 25 dc,* C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next st, 1 dc in next, C2 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 48 dc, repeat from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 22 dc, jn.

Round 25: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 26 dc, *FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 50 dc, rep from* to **once, 1 dc in next 23 dc, jn.

Round 26: ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 26 dc, C4 over next 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 50 dc, C4 over next 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 23 sts, jn.

Round 27: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, B in next, 1 dc in next 12 dc, B, 1 dc in next 6 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, B in next, 1 dc in next 19 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next 14 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next 6 sts, B in next , 1 dc in next 12 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in next 6 sts, jn.( 110 sts)

Round 28: same as round 1.

Round 29: same as round 1.
Round 30: Ch 2, 1 sc in each of the dc across, jn and fasten off.

Bottom:Chain 8, dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in the next 4 ch.turn
Row 2: ch3, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, turn.
Repeat row 2 until the desired length is reached. Fasten off.
(I made a very narrow bottom. Increase the foundation chain to the desired width, if you want a larger bottom for the bag.

Finishing:Sew the bottom to the body. Cut and sew lining for the bag. I had a pocket with zippers attached to the lining. I used a piece of cardboard within two layers of fabric for the bottom. Stitch handles in place.

Drawstring with tassels: Using 6 strands of yarn, chain a desired length of drawstring. Weave the drawstring through round 27 of the body of the bag, (see pic). Make two tassels and attach to the ends. ( passed the drawstring through the crocheted piece as well as the lining. I sew 4 buttonholes in the fabric for that purpose.

My dear old afghan

This is the first afghan I ever made, about six years ago. It came out of a magazine. It was my first experience of tunisian crochet. It took a lot of time and hard work and being a novice, I had trouble with blocking. However It turned out good enough and is now well loved by my husband and son.

Bags Gallery (old)

While putting up my patterns/ projects at ravelry, I thought of a few of my older bags. So I took them out, and shot some photos. Here they are:

The first one is about 12 years old out of a magazine (Burda).

These last two were my own design.


This is to confirm my affiliation with the website.

Ravelry: I'm in!

After a wait of exactly two months, I finally got an invite from ravelry yesterday. I'm checking out the site now. It seems very nice. The only problem is that now my time on internet is likely to increase and the household chores will suffer. Also goodbye sleep.

Eid clothes

Yesterday, I managed to finish Eid clothes for my kids. For my daughter, I have sewn blue shirt with turkish pants, both embellished with gota and sitara.

For my son, I have sewn the traditional shalwar kameez with a little emroidery at the neck. I am relatively new at sewing and am quite happy with the results.

Huh! I've been tagged!?!!

As you can probably guess, I am new at this game.
OK, here are the rules:Once tagged, you must link to the person who tagged you. Then post the rules before your list, and list 8 random things about yourself. At the end of the post, you must tag and link to 8 other people, visit their sites, and leave a comment letting them know they've been tagged.

So,,,, here we go!!

Riohnna tagged me.

8 things about me!

1. I'm a sweet, loving wife to a sweet, loving husband and not-so-sweet amma to two kids.
2. I'm a muslim. Islam means a great way of life for us, leaving us in peace, having a reason to be on this earth.
3. Although I am a stay-at-home amma at present, I have been a doctor in the recent past.
4. Though at quiet person by many standards, I am a chatterbox when compared to a much quieter hubby.
5. I have always been a bookworm and love to read.
6. My other loves include knitting and crochet. Love yarns, hooks and needles of all kinds.
7. I can cook well enough but am more passionate about eating than cooking.
8. Well butterfingers describes it best. You see I have a tendency to let things slip out of my hands. We have gone through 2-3 sets of glasses in the past three years. Another nickname " living catastrophe".

Now to tag 8 more people. I don't personally know this big a number of people on the net so taking Riohnna's advice, I will randomly select 8 victims from the blog thread at 'ville:
Lara
Kelly
Gina
darncat
Elizabeth
Fernanda
Brianna
Linda

It's Ramadan

Entrelac crochet handbag

This is my latest creation that I finished today. I plan to give it as a gift. I had these handles lying around for a very long time and always thought to use them someday., but as yellow is not the most obvious choice for handbag, I always put it off. Well I am glad I finally did it.

I have used flower print yellow cotton fabric to line the bag and placed cardboard within it for the bottom.

Cable vest

At last, I was able to finish the vest for my son. It is a Lionbrand free pattern and it effectively used up some leftover yarn. Also my son seems happy with it.

Next I will be switching gears and start some sewing projects as Ramadan is round the corner and family needs Eid clothes.