Northern Wind Cardigan

The only cardigan I knit this winter is for my eldest daughter. My husband picked out the color and yarn, while my daughter selected the design. The yarn is some Turkish acrylic from our local yarn shop. The design is a free DROPS pattern.

It was a fairly straightforward knit, nothing too exciting or boring. I managed to finish without running out of yarn which was a win. The real callange was getting the lower scalloped edge to not curl. I crocheted two rows of slip sts to counteract that and it works for now.

My daughter is happy with it and that is what I was aiming for. Next up are a few smaller projects.

Laddu Pullover v 2.0

The sweater for my son was done during the week, and a brief spell of rain, brought down the temperature low enough for him to wear it during this winter. I used my laddu pattern for the design with a few bits of modifications. Firstly, I upsized it. Secondly, I knit the sleeves in same color as the body. Thirdly, I joined the sleeves and body and knit the yoke in round. Fourthly, I incorporated some cable into the raglan decreases.

Despite all the modifications , the sweater knit up quite fast. My son approves of it and gives it a high score of nine out of ten.

Peplum

 

Once we somewhat settled into a routine with the new baby, I treated myself to some yarn shopping and bought three sweaters' worth of yarn for the older kids. I got to work on the first sweater in late January. It went quite slow because the only knitting time I get is after the kids' bedtime. Still, a few rows at a time and I got this sweater done in under a month.

   This is for my oldest daughter. I knit this top down, checking the fit as it went along. I did not follow any pattern, just did some math and cast on. She specifically requested raglan sleeves otherwise I had initially planned set-in sleeves. I miscalculated the button band width and it turned out too narrow. So, to avoid gaping, I sewed the cardigan closed from the second buttonhole down to the peplum. About the peplum, I have been wanting to knit one for some time and I think it looks awfully cute on seven-year olds.

  The yarn is our local acrylic DK weight which is surprisingly soft and wears well. My daughter is quite pleased with the sweater and I had a fun time knitting it. I guess that makes it a success.

 Now, on to the second sweater. That is half the size of this one and ought to be done sooner, inshaAllah.

Around The House Cardigan

Someone gave me some old yarn recycled from an old sweater, a while back. Since it was a color most often by me in sweaters, I used it to knit a cardigan for myself to wear around the house. The yarn is somewhere between sports and DK weight. After figuring out the needle size and gauge, I knit a top-down cardigan using contiguous method for shoulders and set-in sleeves.I incorporated a cable for the saddle shoulder.

 Even though I was a bit uncertain about the fit, seeing how I was winging the whole process, it turned out fabulously well, at the first go. Even though it is my third contiguous project, I still get thrilled by how this method makes wonderfully seamless sweaters.  

I used cable charts from this pattern. In the end, the yarn ran a bit short so I ended up with a slightly cropped cardigan and three-quarter sleeves.

 

A Hoodie

For a long time and especially since I knit Steggie, my older daughter has been asking me to make her a hooded sweater. So my sweater for her this winter had to have a hood. It was a quick knit in worsted weight yarn. The pattern is my own, though it is nothing very original, just some ribbing and cables around the chest and sleeves and two pockets to match. It is seamless, except for the pockets which are knitted separately and then sewed on. I briefly considered making it full-sleeved but that did not look so right. In all, it turned out quite nice and she is very happy to have her hoodie.

DROPS Cabled Jumpsuit and Basque Hat

Here goes the first set for the baby. It is a DROPS pattern, which was a bit hard to decipher, leading to small bursts of frogging. Especially the part where the cables start, the stitch count seemed off and I had to work it out on my own. Other than that, it was a quick knit and seems to be well-sized. I knit it in 6/9 months size. The hat is the one modeled with the jumpsuit, though it does not exactly match, with no cables and all garter st. It turned out a bit too large, a toddler size. I have tried to fix it by running a couple of rows of elastic sewing thread through the head band. The yarn is Bally DK, our good local acrylic.
  Next up is a baby sweater, another DROPS design and thankfully, it has been a breeze to knit so far. Hope to post the FO during the next week, inshaAllah.

Cable Pullover With Shawl Collar

 Thank you all for your well wishes.

 Before continuing with my baby knitting, I had to complete this sweater I had started for my son in January. It was neglected quite a bit, while I worked on the baby blanket. I took it up again last week and finally it is done and donned.

 The pattern is my own and the yarn, our local acrylic (which is quite nice and excellent for kids' knits). I had wanted to knit a shawl collar for a long time and this project seemed perfect to try it out. I am quite pleased with how it turned out. The sleeves are quite a bit long, partly due to it being a size 8 on a seven year old and partly due to my inadvertently adding an inch to the size 8 length. But he will grow into it by the next winter, inshaAllah,  for which the pullover is intended.

Cable Top- Free Pattern

I did manage to write a pattern for this cable top I knit last month for my daughter. And after some wonderful help from two awesome testers, the pattern is available now as a free download at my ravelry store. Click on the link below to download the file.

download now

Cable Top

With our household in the throes of gastroenteritis this week, I found little time and energy to work on lace. Instead I cast on another top for my dd. This was a very quick knit mostly because of the aran weight yarn (Rowan All Season Cotton) on 5 mm needles. I'm proud of the fact that I managed to knit it with the two balls of yarn that I had. I used up nearly all of the 196 yards. The pattern is my own and it is size four year so my daughter can have a couple of years wear out of it, inshaAllah.

All in all, it was great fun and now that we seem to be on the mend, I hope to resume work on my stole.

Joined Cables Boy's Cardigan

I finished this cardigan for my son today. It was a simply straightforward knit and turned out quite well. Plus my son seems to like it. The yarn I used is Bally DK, a local Pakistani acrylic brand. Needle sizes were 5 mm and 4.5 mm. The joined cable pattern is from a stitch dictionary. I have made it for size 5-6 years as my son will turn 5 this winter.
I spent the afternoon writing out the pattern. Although there is not much to it, but there seems to be a scarcity of sweater patterns for little guys and I also needed to practise my pattern writing skills. So here is the pattern. I have not mastered excel yet so there is no cable chart.
I could not think of a clever name for this one so it has to be joind cables boy's cardigan after the st pattern.

JOINED CABLES BOY’S CARDIGAN

Material:
- Bally DK (acrylic) grey 80 gm/ball (or any other that gets the correct gauge) ----- 4 balls.
- One pair each of straight needles size 5.00 mm and 4.50 mm and circular needles size 4.50 mm.
- Tapestry needle

Size:
3 years, 4-5 years, 5-6 years

Finished measurements:

3 years 4 years 5-6 years
Chest 13 inches 14 inches 15 inches
Length 16 inches 17.5 inches 19 inches
Sleeve length 11 inches 11.5 inches 12.5 inches

Tension: 8 sts x 12 rows = 2 inches in st st with larger needles.

Abbreviations:
C1(4- st right crossover): slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k 2, k2 from the cable needle.
C2 (4-st left crossover): slip 2 sts on cable needle and hold in front, k 2, k2 from the cable needle.
C3 (4-st right cross): slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k 2, p2 from the cable needle.
C4 (4-st right cross): slip 2 sts on cable needle and hold in front, p2, k2 from the cable needle.

Pattern st (Joined Cables):
Worked on 14 sts.
Row 1: K3, p2, k4, p2, k3.
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: Work each st as it appears on the needle.
Row 3: K3, p2, C2, p2, k3.
Row 5: Repeat row 1.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 9: K3, C3, C4, k3.
Row 11: K1, C3, p4, C4, k1.
Row 13: K1, C1, p4, C2, K1.
Row 15: k3,C4,C3,k3.
Row 16: work as set.
These 16 rows form the pattern.


BACK:
With 4.50 mm straight needles cast on 58 ,(62 , 66) sts. Work in k 2, p 2 rib for 10 rows.
Change to 5.00 mm needles and work in st st until the piece measures 15 (16.5, 18) inches from the beg.
Next row: K 27 sts, join another ball of yarn cast off the next 12 sts and knit to the end of the row.
Working both sides simultaneously with separate balls, work as follows:
Decrease 2,(2,3) sts at the neck edge over the next two rows, then dec 1(2, 2) sts at the next edge over the next 2 rows.[21(21,22) sts on each side}
Work 2 more rows in st st, cast off.


POCKETS (make 2):
With 5.00 mm needles, cast on 16 sts. Work in st st for 20 rows, leave sts on a spare needle.

RIGHT FRONT:
With 4.50mm straight needles, cast on 26,(28,30) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib for 10 rows, INCREASING 2 sts evenly distributed, in the last row.[28( 30, 32) sts]
Change to 5.00 mm needles,
Next row: Knit 6(8,8) sts, row 1 of the pattern over the next 14 sts, knit last 8(8,10) sts.
Next row (WS) : work as the sts appear on the needle.
Continue in this manner, working the 14 sts in cable pattern (6(8,8) sts in from the front edge) and the rest in st st., until the piece measures 5.5 inches from the beginning, ending with a WS row.
Pocket opening:
Next row (RS): knit the first 5(7,7) sts, place the next 16 sts on the needle holder, knit the 16 sts of one of the pockets which were being held on the spare needle, knit the remaining 7(7,9) sts. [28 (30,32) sts]
Continue in pattern as established, resuming the cable pattern from where it was left, until the piece measures 10 (11.5,13) inches from the beg, ending with a WS row.
Neck Shaping:
Dec 1 st at the neck margin in the next row and then in every 3rd row, a total of 9 (10, 10) times. [19(20,22) sts remain]
Continue in pattern until the front matches back in length, bind off.

LEFT FRONT:
Work as for right front, reversing the shaping. The cable pattern is worked on 14 sts, 8 sts in from the centre edge, similar to the right front.

SLEEVES (make 2):
Join the shoulder seams. Place Markers 6.5(7,7) inches down from the shoulder seam on the side edge both at front and back. Join yarn and with 5.oomm needle pick up and knit 52,(54,56) sts across the side edge between these markers. Work in st st decreasing 1 st at both ends of every 6th row, a total of 9(9,10) times [ 34(36,36)sts]
Change to 4.50 mm needles when the sleeves measure 9.5 (10,11) inches. Work in k2, p2 rib for 8 rows. Cast off loosely in rib.

FINISHING:
Pocket bands: Transfer the 16 sts at the pocket opening from the holding needle onto 4.50 mm needle and work in k2, p2 rib for 4 rows. Cast off loosely in rib.
Front band: Starting at the bottom of right front opening, join yarn and pick up and knit 42(48,54) sts cross the right front, 20(22,22) st along the right slope of the neck shaping, 20 sts across the back,20(22,22) sts along the left front slope of the neck and 42(48,54) sts across the left front. Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 rows.
Next row(WS) (Buttonholes): work 4 sts in rib, cast off next 2 sts, (work 8 sts in rib, cast off next 2 sts) 3(4,4) times, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Next row: Work in rib patt as established, on reaching the first buttonhole, cast on 2 sts, (work next 8 sts in rib, cast on 2 sts) 3(4,4) times, work last 4 sts in rib.
Work 2 more rows in rib, cast off (not loosely but rather firmly) in rib.
Sew together the sleeves and side seams. Weave in the loose ends.

[1]
© copyright ummeyusuf , 2008 http://ummeyusuf.blogspot.com
This pattern is for personal, non-profit use only.

On The Needles

I seem to have started a lot of projects at the same time. I am knitting a cardigan for my son. It is my own design. I still have done the back and right front. I am using a cable pattern down the middle of each front. The cardigan is going to have two pockets as well.

The other knitting project is a sweater for my daughter. It is the Pinwheel Sweater pattern. I am nearly done with the body. Have to do the egding and sleeves. The picture is an earlier one before the armholes were knit. The armhole instructions are a bit tricky, otherwise it is a straight-forward knit and quite quick too.

I am also doing a few gift projects in crochet. I will post details and photos later. In the coming week, I also plan to sew the sockbags for my contest(inshallah).

Anniversary Bag

This is the bag I completed last week. I wrote the pattern but it had a few charts and I do not know the anyother way to put them on my blog, so I did them by hand and took photos in good sunlight. I think these are fairly legible.

I named this bag thus because I started it in March on the day of our wedding anniversary. It took almost two months to finish, mostly because I did not have time to knit for a month or so. It has quite a variety of cable patterns and is suitable for knitters who have some experience of cable and working from a chart.

ANNIVERSARY BAG

Material:
• Acrylic yarn, off-white, Sports weight
· Knitting needles 4 mm.
· Fabric and canvas for lining
· Zippers

Gauge: 10 sts x 10 rows = 2 inches in Furrows st

Size: 8(height) x 13.5(width) x 2.75(depth) inches

Pattern stitches and abbreviations:
C2b: Put next st on cable needle at back of the knitting, k next st, k st from the cable needle.

Furrows st pattern: ( Taken from Big Book of Knitting Stitch Patterns
by Inc. Sterling Publishing Co.)
Work with a multiple of 6 sts plus 3:
Row 1: P3, *k1, slip 1, k1, p3* : rep from *to* .
Row 2: Work as set.
Row 3: as row 1.
Row 4: as set.
Row 5: K4, *slip 1, k 5* ; repeat from * to*, ending last repeat with k4.
Row 6: as set.
Row 7: rep row 5.
Row 8: as set.
Repeat rows 1 through 8 for pattern.

Method:
Body (make 2):
Cast on 74 sts. One st on each end is an edge st, worked in garter st (i.e. knit in every row). Rest of the sts are worked following the three charts:
Row 1: K1, work 1st row of chart #1, then chart # 2, chart # 1, then Chart #3, Chart#1, chart # 2 and chart #1, k1.
Row 2: K1, work as set to the last st, k1.
Continue in pattern, following the three charts, until it measures inches from the start, ending with row 12 or 14 of chart #3.
Ribbing at the top:
Row 1: (K2, p2) rep to the end.
Row 2: Work as set.
Row 3: (C2b, p2), repeat to the end.
Row 4: Rep row 2.
Row 5: Rep row 1. Bind off in rib.

Sides and Bottom gussets:
Cast on 15 sts. Work in Furrows st until the piece is long enough to go around both sides and bottom, cast off.

Finishing:
Stitch together the three pieces and line as appropriate. I used double layer of fabric with canvas in between for a nice firm shape. Stitch a zipper along the top opening, pinching top ends of the gussets into a double fold and stitching it in place. (See pic)
Handles can be of your own choice. For handles, I used ww yarn in charcoal and made two I-cords ( 8 sts). Then, I passed a electrical cord (the kind used in electrical appliances) to make it sturdier and sewed them into place. Also, stitched a bead onto each end.

© copyright ummeyusuf , 2008 http://ummeyusuf.blogspot.com/This pattern is for personal, non-profit use only.

Cricket Pullover

I finished this pullover for my son in February, but was a bit slow in writing out the pattern. Here it is now, done and complete. I wanted something a little more grown up for my son, something more on the boyish side rather than the usual baby styles.It looks a lot like the kind of pullovers cricketers wear. Being in a cricket-crazy part of the world with my husband being a huge fan of the game, the most likely name to come to my mind was Cricket pullover.

Last Edit: November 13, 2012

CRICKET PULLOVER

Material:- Any Dk weight yarn or yarn that gets the right gauge (100%) dark green (MC)... approx 250gm, and 50gms each of pistachio green (CC2) and off-white (CC1).
- One pair each of straight needles size 3.50 mm and 4.00 mm and circular needles size 3.50 mm.
- Tapestry needle

Size:3 (4-5, 6-7) years

Finished measurements:

Chest: 26 (28, 30) inches
Length: 16 (18, 20) inches
Sleeve length: 11.25 (12.5, 14) inches

Tension:11 sts x 15 rows = 2 inches in st st with larger needles.

Abbreviations:CC: contrasting color.
ccb2: pass the next two sts onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, K the next 2 sts, k2 from the cable needle. (with practice, this cable can be done without a cable needle.
ssp: sl st purlwise.
PM: place marker.
M: marker.
MC: main color

Cable Pattern : (multiple of 12 sts)
Row 1 (RS): (K4, p2) repeat to the end.
Row 2 and all even no. rows (WS): work as set.
Row 3: (K4, p2, ccb2, p2), repeat to the end.
Row 4: as row 2.
Row 5: repeat row 1.
Row 6: as row 2.
These 6 rows make up the pattern.

BACK:
With 3.5 mm straight needles and Dark green (MC), cast on 72,(78, 84) sts. Work in k 2, p 2 rib for 16 rows.
Change to 4.00mm needles and off-white (CC1), work 4 rows in st st (starting with a k row) then join Pistachio green (CC2) and work 4 rows of st st in this color. Fasten off this yarn. Then with CC1, work another 4 rows in st st, increasing 6 (6, 8) sts evenly distributed across in the last row. [78 (84, 92) sts] Fasten off CC1 and continue in main color as follows:
Row 1: K.
Row 2: P
Row 3: K 1 (0, 2), work row 1 of the cable pattern 6 (7, 7) times, k 5 (0, 6).
Row 4: P 5 (0, 6), work row 2 of the cable pattern 6 (7, 7) times, p 1 (0, 2).
Continue in pattern as set until the piece measures 15.5 (17.5, 19.5) inches from the start, ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): Work 35 (37, 41) sts in etablished pattern, cast off the next 8 (10, 10) sts, continue in pattern till the end of the row. Joining yarn to the right half, work both halves simultaneously as follows:
Next row (WS): Work as set. Next 2 rows: Cast off 5 (6, 7) sts at the neck margin on both sides.[ 30( 31, 34)] sts on both sides. Next 2 rows: Cast off 5 (5, 6) sts over the next two rows.[25 (26, 28)] sts on both halves). Work 2 more rows. Bind off.

FRONT:Work as for back until the piece measures 9.5 (11, 12.5) inches, ending with a WS row.
Neck Shaping:Next row (RS): Continuing in pattern, work till the 2 centre sts, cast these off, work to the end.
Join another ball of yarn and work both sides simultaneously.
Next row (WS): Work as set.
Dec 1 st at the neck margin on both sides in the next row and then in every alternate row, a total of 13 (15, 17) times. [52 (26, 28) sts remain]
Continue in pattern until the front matches back in length, bind off.

SLEEVES (make 2):
With 3.5 mm straight needles and Dark green (MC), cast on 38 (42, 46) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib for 16 rows.
Change to 4.00mm needles and off-white (CC1), work 4 rows in st st (starting with a k row) then join Pistachio green (CC2) and work 4 rows of st st in this color. Fasten off this yarn. Then with CC1, work another 4 rows in st st, increasing 4 sts evenly distributed across in the last row.[42 (46, 50 sts)]. Fasten off CC1 and continue in main color as follows:
Row 1: K.
Row 2: P
Row 2:  K1 (3, 0), work row 1 of the cable pattern 3 (3, 4) times, k 5 (7 , 2). Continue in pattern as set, increasing 1 st at both ends of every 4 ( 4, 5)th row, 17 times. [76, (80, 80 sts)]. Note: work the increased sts in st st. Continue in pattern until the piece measures 11.25 (12.5, 14) inches from the start, ending with a WS row, bind off.
FINISHING:
Neckband:
Join right shoulder seam. With 3.5 mm circular needles and CC1 (RS facing), join yarn, pick up and knit 41(43, 45) stitches down the left neck front, PM (place marker), K1 at the front center, PM, pick up and knit 42(44,46) sts across the right neck front and 30 sts across the back. [114(118, 122) sts]
Row 2 (WS): P till 2 sts before the marker, p2tog, sk marker, p1, sk marker, ssp (slip st purlwise), p to the end.
Row 3: K till 2 sts before marker, ssk, M(marker), k1, M, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times (i.e. 6 more rows), working initial three rows in CC2 and the last three rows in CC1 again.
Join MC and repeat row 2 once, then work in k2,p2 rib for 5 rows, working decreases before the 2 markers as before (k center st on RS and p on WS). Bind off loosely in rib.

Sew together the left shoulder seam and the sleeves and side seams. Weave in the loose ends.

[1]
© copyright ummeyusuf , 2008 http://ummeyusuf.blogspot.com/
This pattern is for personal, non-profit use only.

RAK fingerless gloves

Now that CrochetCupcake from RAK gorup at ravelry has received her package, I feel free to post a pciture of the gloves I made for her. I made these last month, took about three weeks to reach her in the US.

The yarn was 100% wool, a now discontinued local brand in natural color. I dyed it myself. This was my first experience with wool and the result was quite nice. The pattern was of Shawnee's own choice. I just modified the thumb gusset, starting the increases early and increasing on every third round.

Lateral cable socks with toe

At last, I am done with my first socks pattern. First I started with another colorway, but later on, I realized that I did not have enough yarn. So I started anew with this. Though these are not the best colors, I am very happy with the pattern. Yay! Now back to the cardigan for some simple mindless knitting in the midst of my ever piling-up chores.

Lateral cable socks with toes

Material:
· 3-ply yarn or yarn that gets the correct guage.
· A set of four dpns size 3.00 mm.
· Tapestry needle
· A length of waste yarn

Gauge: 14 sts x 22 rows= 2 inches in st st with 3.00 mm needles

Size: women’s medium (9.5 inches)

Cable Pattern: worked on 6 sts.
Row 1: P1, k4, p1.
Row 2: P1, put next 2 sts on a cable needle at the back of work, k next 2 sts, k the 2 sts from cable needle, p1.
Row 3: As row 1.
Row 4: As row 1.
Repeat these 4 rows. With experience, you can work this cable with out a cable needle.

Method:

Right sock:
With double strand and thumb-cast-on method, cast on 54 sts. Divide the sts evenly on 3 DPNs, and making sure these are not twisted, prepare to work the first round.
Round 1-8: Work in k1,p1 rib for these 8 rounds.Round 9: P1, K4, p1, knit to the end.
Round 10-32: work cable pattern over first 6 sts, k to the end.
Transfer the last 27 sts of the round onto one needle(# 1),on which the heel flap will be knit, while dividing the rest of sts evenly onto two other dpns(needles # 2 and 3).

Heel flap: Turn and work on needle #1 as follows:
Row 1(WS): sl 1, (p1, sl 1) to the end.
Row 2: k1, (sl 1, k1) to the end.
Repeat these two rows 16 times. Then proceed to turning the heel:
Next row: Sl 1, p 17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl 1, k 8, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, p9 p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl1, k 10, ssk k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1,p 11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 12, ssk,k1,turn.
Next row: sl 1, p 13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 14, ssk, k1.
Without turning pick up and knit 17 sts across the side of heel flap. Then knit the sts on needles # 2 and 3 as set, pick up and knit 17sts across the other side of heel flap. Distribute all these sts onto three dpns as follows: All sts which were on needles# 2 and three onto one needle(#B these will form the top of foot),. Divide the rest of sts onto needles#A and C.
Round 1: Work as set.
Round 2: Knit until 3 sts remain on needle#A, k2tog, k1, Knit across needle# B (first 6 sts in cable pattern as set), On needle# C, k1, ssk, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rounds until a sum of 27 sts remain on needles# A and C.
Work as set for a further 36 rows. Break yarn leaving a long length.

Divide for Toes:
Thread a length of waste thread onto a tapestry needle and thread through all the sts, starting from needle #C, then #A, and then #B and remove the needles. Now the sts are arranged such that the two ends of the waste yarn lie on the inner side of the foot. (Sts on the right of the waste yarn’s free ends form the top of foot while those on left form the bottom.

Big Toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 9 sts to the immediate right of waste yarn’s free ends(these form the top of big toe), then pick up and knit 9 sts on the other side of free ends(these form the bottom) , cast on 3 sts. (21 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (K2tog, k 3) till 1 st remains, k1.(17 sts)
Next round: Knit.
Next round: (k2tog, k1) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of big toe) on the wrong side.

Second toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of big toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of big toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of big toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 2nd big toe) on the wrong side.

Third toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of 2nd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of2nd toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of 2nd toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 12 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fourth toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 4 sts to the immediate right of 3rd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 3rd toe, pick up and knit 4 sts to the immediate left of 3rd toe, cast on 3 sts. (14 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 10 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fifth toe:
Join yarn and pick up the remaining 8 sts, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 4rd toe. (11 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 8 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Left Sock:
With double strand and thumb-cast-on method, cast on 54 sts. Divide the sts evenly on 3 DPNs, and making sure these are not twisted, prepare to work the first round.
Round 1-8: Work in k1,p1 rib for these 8 rounds.
Round 9: K to the last 6 sts, p1,k4, p1.
Round 10-32: K to the last 6 sts, work cable pattern over the last 6.
Transfer the first 27 sts of the round onto one needle(# 1),on which the heel flap will be knit, while dividing the rest of sts evenly onto two other dpns(needles # 2 and 3).

Heel flap: Turn and work on needle #1 as follows:
Row 1(WS): sl 1, (p1, sl 1) to the end.
Row 2: k1, (sl 1, k1) to the end.
Repeat these two rows 16 times. Then proceed to turning the heel:
Next row: Sl 1, p 17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl 1, k 8, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, p9 p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl1, k 10, ssk k1, turn.
Next row: sl 1,p 11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 12, ssk,k1,turn.
Next row: sl 1, p 13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: sl 1, k 14, ssk, k1.
Without turning pick up and knit 17 sts across the side of heel flap. Then knit the sts on needles # 2 and 3 as set, pick up and knit 17sts across the other side of heel flap. Distribute all thes sts onto three dpns as follows: All sts which were on needles# 2 and 3 onto one needle(#B these will form the top of foot),. Divide the rest of sts onto needles#A and C.
Round 1: Work as set.
Round 2: Knit until 3 sts remain on needle#A, k2tog, k1, Knit across needle# B (last 6 sts in cable pattern as set), On needle# C, k1, ssk, k to the end.
Repeat these 2 rounds until a sum of 27 sts remain on needles# A and C.
Work as set for a further 36 rows. Break yarn leaving a long length.

Divide for Toes:
Thread a length of waste thread onto a tapestry needle and thread through all the sts, starting from needle #B, then #C, and then #A and remove the needles. Now the sts are arranged such that the two ends of the waste yarn lie on the inner side of the foot. (Sts on the right of the waste yarn’s free ends form the bottom of foot while those on left form the top.

Big Toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 9 sts to the immediate right of waste yarn’s free ends(these form the bottom of big toe), then pick up and knit 9 sts on the other side of free ends(these form the top) , cast on 3 sts. (21 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (K2tog, k 3) till 1 st remains, k1.(17 sts)
Next round: Knit.
Next round: (k2tog, k1) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of big toe) on the wrong side.

Second toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of big toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of big toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of big toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 14 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the trapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 2nd big toe) on the wrong side.

Third toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 5 sts to the immediate right of 2nd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of2nd toe, pick up and knit 5 sts to the immediate left of 2nd toe, cast on 3 sts. (16 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 12 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) to the end.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fourth toe:
Join yarn and pick up(RS facing) and knit 4 sts to the immediate right of 3rd toe, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 3rd toe, pick up and knit 4 sts to the immediate left of 3rd toe, cast on 3 sts. (14 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 10 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 2 sts remain, k2tog.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Fifth toe:
Join yarn and pick up the remaining 8 sts, then pick up and knit 3 sts on the side of 4rd toe. (11 sts).Distribute evenly on three needles and knit in round for 8 rounds.
Next round: (k2tog, k2) till 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.
Break of yarn leaving a long length, thread through the tapestry needle and thread through all the sts on needle. Pull tight to close the top. Secure and weave both loose lengths(start and finish of 3rd big toe) on the wrong side.

Finishing:
Weave in any loose ends. It is best to weave in the loose ends of each toe right when the toe is done, closing any hole that may occur in between the toes at the same time.

Bobbles

Inspiration for Bobbles came from this bag. Needless to say, it has a lot of bobbles which may not be to everyone,s liking, but I had never crochet these before so I enjoyed doing it. Also I have to carry around a lot of baby stuff, so I thought it was a classier way to carry it. Crochet part was not very hard but writing down the pattern was. I made the handles myself. Overall I am very pleased with the result.

BOBBLES

Material:· Acrylic yarn (light fingering) off-white ( I used three strands throughout)
· Crochet hook size 4.5 mm
· Fabric for lining
· Cardboard for bottom
· One zipper
· A pair of purse handles (I made mine myself)

Size:

approx. 13 inches in height and 16 inches in width

Gauge:7 dc x 4 rows= 2 inches

Special stitches:
B (bobble): yrh, insert hook into the front loop of st, draw up a long loop,rep 4 times from= 11 loops on hook, yrh, draw through 10 loops, yrh, draw through the 2 loops on the hook.
C1( over three sts): Skip first st, FPDCin 2nd st, yrh, insert hook into the first st, draw up a loop(3 loops on the hook), yrh,draw through 2 loops, insert hook into the third st, draw up a loop(4 loops on hook), yrh, draw through 2 loops, yrh, draw through all 3 loops on the hook.FPDC in 2nd stitch again.
C2( over 2 sts): skip 1st st, FPDC in 2nd st, 1 dc in first st.
C3 (over 2 sts): skip 1st st, 1 dc in 2nd st, FPDC in 1st st.
C4 (over 5 sts): Skip 1st st, 1 dc in each of the next two sts, FPDC tog in the 1st and 5th st, I dc in the 3rd st again and then in the 4th st.
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet.

Method:Three strands of yarn are used through out the piece except for the chain with tassels where I used six.

Body: Chain 110 sts, jn with sl st to the first ch, taking care not to twist the piece.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), work 1 dc in each chain across, jn with sl st to the 3rd ch of the initial ch3. (110 dc).

Round 2 : same as round 1.

Round 3: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, *work B (bobble) in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 18 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, B in next dc**, 1 dc in next 15 dc, rep from* to** once. 1 dc in next 5 dc , jn.(110 sts)

Round 4: same as round 1.

Round 5: same as round 1.

Round 6: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 27 dc, C1 over next 3 dc, 1 dc in each of next 52 dc, C1 over next 3 dc, 1 dc in each of next 24 dc, jn. (110 sts)

Round 7: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 27 dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 52 dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, FPDC in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 24 dc, jn.

Round 8: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 16 dc, *B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, C2 over next 2 st, B in next dc, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, B in next dc, I dc in each of next 4 dc, B in next dc.** 1 dc in next 29 dc, rep from* to** once. 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, jn.

Round 9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 26 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 50 dc, FPDC in next st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 23 dc, jn. (110 sts)

Round 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 11 sts,* C1 over next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, B in next st ,C3 in next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, C1 over next 3 dc, **1 dc in each of next 19 dc, rep from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, jn. (110 sts)

Round 11: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next st, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts. FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next st, FPDC in next st, **1 dc in each of next 19 dc. Rep from* to**once.1 dc in each of next 7 dc, jn.


Round 12: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, *C2 over next 2 sts, B in next dc, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, C2 in next 2 sts. (B in next st, 1 dc in next) twice, B in next st, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, B in next st, C3 over next 2 st**, 1 dc in each of next 17 dc,. Rep from *to **once. 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, jn.

Round 13: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc,* FPDC in next dc , 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 17dc. Rep from* to** once, 1 dc each of next 6 dc, jn.

Round 14: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, *C2 over next 2 sts, B in next, 1 dc in next dc, B in next, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, C3 over next 2 sts, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st ) three times. B in next st, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, B in next, 1 dc in next, B in next, C3 over next 2 sts**. 1 dc in each of next 15 dc, rep from *to** once, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, jn.(110 sts)

Round 15: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st, 1dc in each of next 7 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 9 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 15 sts, rep from* to** once. 1 dc in next 5 dc, jn.

Round 16: Ch3, 1 dc in each of next 8 sts, *C2 over next 2 sts, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice, B in next st. C3 over the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, C2 over next 2 sts, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st) 4 times, B in next st, C3 over the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts. C2 over next 2 sts, (b in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice, B in next st, C3 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, rep from* to**, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, jn.

Round 17: Ch3, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, *FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 7 st, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 11 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, FPDC in next st.** 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, rep from *to **once, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, jn.

Round 18: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, *C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, (B in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice, C2 over the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, C3 over next 2 sts (1 dc in next, B in next st) 4 times, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, C3 over next 2 sts, (1 dc in next, B in next st) twice, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, rep from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, jn.( 110 sts)

Round 19: Ch 3, 1 dc in next 9 dc, *FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 9 st, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 15 dc, rep from *to** once, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, jn.

Round 20: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, *C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next , 1 dc in next 3 st, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C3 over next 2 st, (1 dc in next st, B in next st) 3 times, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next st, 1 dc in next st, C2 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 15 sts, rep from *to** , 1 dc in each of next 5 sts.

Round 21: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, FPDC in next st, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, FPDC in next, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, FPDC in next**, 1 dc in each of next 17 dc, rep from *to** , 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, jn.(110 sts)

Round 22: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, *C4 over 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 9 sts, C 3 over next 2 sts, ( 1 dc in next, B in next st) twice, 1 dc in next st, C 2 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc, C4 over next 5 sts**, dc in each of next 17 dc, rep from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, jn.

Round 23: Ch 3 , 1 dc in each of next 25 dc,* FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 5 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in next 48 dc, rep from *to** once. 1 dc in next 22 dc, jn.(110 sts)

Round 24: Ch 3, 1 dc in next 25 dc,* C3 over next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, B in next st, 1 dc in next, C2 over next 2 sts**, 1 dc in each of next 48 dc, repeat from* to** once, 1 dc in each of next 22 dc, jn.

Round 25: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 26 dc, *FPDC in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, FPDC in next st**, 1 dc in each of next 50 dc, rep from* to **once, 1 dc in next 23 dc, jn.

Round 26: ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 26 dc, C4 over next 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 50 dc, C4 over next 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 23 sts, jn.

Round 27: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, B in next, 1 dc in next 12 dc, B, 1 dc in next 6 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, B in next, 1 dc in next 19 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next 14 sts, B in next st, 1 dc in next 6 sts, B in next , 1 dc in next 12 dc, B in next dc, 1 dc in next 6 sts, jn.( 110 sts)

Round 28: same as round 1.

Round 29: same as round 1.
Round 30: Ch 2, 1 sc in each of the dc across, jn and fasten off.

Bottom:Chain 8, dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in the next 4 ch.turn
Row 2: ch3, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, turn.
Repeat row 2 until the desired length is reached. Fasten off.
(I made a very narrow bottom. Increase the foundation chain to the desired width, if you want a larger bottom for the bag.

Finishing:Sew the bottom to the body. Cut and sew lining for the bag. I had a pocket with zippers attached to the lining. I used a piece of cardboard within two layers of fabric for the bottom. Stitch handles in place.

Drawstring with tassels: Using 6 strands of yarn, chain a desired length of drawstring. Weave the drawstring through round 27 of the body of the bag, (see pic). Make two tassels and attach to the ends. ( passed the drawstring through the crocheted piece as well as the lining. I sew 4 buttonholes in the fabric for that purpose.